Why Are There So Many Tobacco Shops in Italy?

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Door and Tabaccheria sign of a tobacco shop in Italy

In Italy, tobacco shops — known as Tabacchi — are everywhere. I don’t smoke, but even for me they turned out to be the handiest places around. Need a bus ticket, a phone top-up, or a stamp for your postcard? These little stores have you covered.


There are around 50,000 Tabacchi in Italy — almost as common as cafés. They look like cigarette shops, but in reality they’re much more than that. Tickets, stamps, snacks, lottery tickets, phone credit — all packed into one tiny counter.

However, their numbers are slowly shrinking as more people buy tickets, pay bills, or recharge phones online. That’s why the ones that remain feel even more like everyday anchors.

Sure, you’ll find similar shops abroad: Tabac in France, Kiosk or Tabakladen in Germany, R-Kiosk in Estonia, and newsagents in the UK. Still, Italian Tabacchi feel different — part of daily life, woven into the country’s rhythm.

Most tobacco shops in Italy are run by a single person. And if you step outside the tourist zones, English isn’t guaranteed. Even so, people usually try to help.

Inside, the counter often looks cheerfully chaotic: bus tickets next to candy bars, lotto slips piled beside phone cards — a jumble that somehow works.

What You Can Do at Tobacco Shops in Italy

Get bus and train tickets

Some stations don’t have machines, and you can’t always buy on board. Fortunately, most Tabacchi sell regional train and city bus tickets.

Send postcards

Italian post offices mean long lines. Instead, grab francobolli (stamps) at a Tabacchi and drop your card in a red mailbox.

Top up your Italian SIM

Most carriers let you recharge at a Tabacchi — €5, €10, or €20, no documents needed. As a result, it’s often the fastest option.

Ask for a lift

In small towns, the Tabacchi is often the best spot to look for a ride. Buses can be rare, and people sometimes give lifts if you wait or ask nearby. And inside, it often doubles as the local news hub, with neighbours chatting while picking up tickets or stamps.

Pick up everyday essentials

Pens, toothpaste, snacks, phone cables… even umbrellas or toys. And of course, tobacco — sold only here by law.

Try your luck

Italians love gioco del lotto. Tabacchi are where people buy their lucky numbers, usually with a smile and a shrug.

Pay bills

Some shops work like mini post offices. You hand over the barcode and cash, and they process your payment on the spot.

How to Find a Tabacchi in Italy

Look for the big “T” sign on a blue or black board. Some say Sali e Tabacchi — a nod to the old state monopoly on salt and tobacco. And if you need directions, apps like Tabacchi Italia can point you to the nearest one.

Tobacco Shop Opening Hours in Italy

Most open Monday to Saturday, usually 08:00–13:00 and 15:00–19:30. Expect a long lunch break. On Sundays, many stay closed — especially in small towns — so plan ahead.

Mark Your Spot in Italy

Italy isn’t just about grand piazzas and Renaissance palaces. Sometimes it’s the tiny places — like a Tabacchi with its humming lottery machine and shelves of bus tickets — that show you the country’s real rhythm.

They may not last forever, but right now they’re still stitched into daily life. Step inside a tobacco shop in Italy, and you’ll understand why locals would miss them if they were gone.

If you’re heading north, don’t miss my Lake Como Travel Guide →

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