Montenegro

Travel Guide
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Montenegro's name is as beautiful and poetic as its landscapes. Imagine beaches fringed with pine trees and marinas dotted with yachts. Inland, you will discover lakes and mountains of unparalleled beauty. It's hard not to fall in love with this place! In this guide, I'll share tips on the best places to stay, must-see sights, and common pitfalls to avoid.


Montenegro, in Southeast Europe on the Balkan Peninsula, was part of Yugoslavia until 2003. Each year, more tourists visit, drawn by the sunshine, UNESCO sites, and mountain trails.

Why do I recommend Montenegro?

It’s simple. Montenegro is perfect for those who seek more than just a beach holiday. The country offers a great mix of relaxation, historical exploration, and thrilling adventures. You can visit historic coastal towns or enjoy the stunning landscapes of lakes and mountains.

Places like Perast, Budva, and Bar spark the imagination, while the UNESCO-protected old town of Kotor offers a rich historical experience. Tivat brings a touch of Monaco’s glamour.

For beach enthusiasts, Jaz, Mogren, and Velika Plaža are ideal for swimming and sunbathing. In Žabljak, I love exploring glacier lakes, waterfalls, and secluded trails. I’m also looking forward to exploring Herceg Novi in the future.

The name ‘Montenegro’ comes from ‘Crna Gora’, meaning ‘Black Mountain’, inspired by the dense evergreen forests on Mount Lovćen. Unlike many countries, you can see firsthand where the name originates. Near Cetinje, Mount Lovćen is accessible to all tourists, not just experienced climbers, and can also be admired from a distance, such as from Kotor.

Montenegro, like many places in the Balkans, faces some challenges, such as rundown buildings, littered beaches, inconsistent service, and heavy traffic on narrow roads.

However, these are minor when compared to the friendliness of the locals, the wide range of activities, the incredible natural beauty, and the stunning Adriatic coast. If you’re looking for a destination that offers both tranquillity and adventure, Montenegro is definitely worth considering.

Where to go in Montenegro

Montenegro boasts numerous well-preserved ancient towns and over 70 kilometres of varied beaches—pebbly, sandy, and artificial. Deciding where to stay can be challenging as online information often contradicts itself, and every landlord claims their location is the best.

Montenegro’s compact size facilitates easy exploration. Cannot decide on just one place? Why not spend a few days in each?

Here is a brief overview of the main resorts to help you find your ideal Montenegrin retreat.

1. Kotor (Population: 13,000)

Kotor’s ancient walls meet the mountain.

A fusion of styles and eras enriches the city.

Quaint balconies dot the city centre.

Several trails lead up to views over Kotor. Photo: Joachim Lesne/Unsplash

From both historical and scenic standpoints, Kotor tops my list of Montenegrin resorts. The entire old town is a UNESCO-protected area. Over the years, it has been ruled by the Serbs, French, and Austrians, yet the Venetians have left the most profound imprint on its character.

In brief:

  • A historic town protected by UNESCO.
  • Stunning bay views.
  • Well-developed amenities including cafés, bars, and transport links.
  • Not suitable for traditional beach vacations.
  • Crowded with cruise tourists in high season.

Kotor, often called a mini-Dubrovnik, boasts architectural beauty similar to its Croatian neighbour, albeit on a smaller scale with narrower streets. I have not yet visited Dubrovnik, but I am eager to see it, particularly due to its similarities with Kotor.

The town boasts robust infrastructure: numerous cafés, bars, and tour paths. From here, you can easily travel by bus to other coastal towns or venture into the mountains of northern Montenegro.

Kotor can get crowded, especially when cruise ships dock. Consider staying in Dobrota for a quieter, more peaceful experience away from the crowds. The small local beach there also boasts clearer water.

What to see

To truly experience its charm, take it slow and soak in the atmosphere rather than rushing from site to site. Here are some must-visit locations:

Churches: The Orthodox Saint Nicholas Church and the Catholic Saint Tryphon Cathedral are mesmerizing.
City Gates: Walking through the Main (Sea), South (Gurdic), and North (River) gates feels like stepping back in time.
Museums: The Maritime Museum of Montenegro offers an in-depth exploration of the region’s seafaring heritage, while the unique Museum of Ancient Cat Illustrations adds a whimsical touch.
Viewpoints: The path to the ruins of Kotor Fortress involves a steep climb, with an €8 fee charged from April to October. The view from the top is breathtaking. Nearby, there is a free alternative path that offers a gentler ascent.

Beaches

Kotor possesses only a small beach opposite the cruise port, which is less than ideal for a beach day. However, the surrounding area offers attractive alternatives:

Dobrota: Merely a short walk away, featuring stretches of pebble and concrete beaches, complete with changing rooms and sun loungers.
Outside Kotor: A local bus can take you to the sandy-pebble Morinj Beach, or you can explore the pebble shores of Orahovac and Risan, or the concrete beach in Perast. A brief visit to Perast is also highly recommended, not only for its beaches but also for the stunning twin islets of Gospa od Škrpjela and St. George.

2. Perast (Population: 350)

Island 1. Gospa od Škrpjela. Tourists take boats to visit the church.

Island 2. Saint George. You can admire it from a boat. Photo by Paddy Pohlod.

Perast’s promenade features restaurants with scenic views of the islets.

If you were to ask me to name just one town in Montenegro worth visiting, I would likely choose Perast. Despite its diminutive size, it is an incredibly beautiful place. Whether you visit for a couple of hours or stay for a few days to leisurely explore, I would envy your experience.

In brief:

  • Small and cozy.
  • Two breathtakingly beautiful islets nearby.
  • Pleasant promenade lined with restaurants.
  • Easy access from Kotor and Tivat airport.

Perast is steeped in rich history and cultural heritage. Its architecture is impressive, and wandering its streets and alleys is a delight. It is also an excellent spot to try local cuisine, with numerous restaurants offering delicious seafood dishes and other local specialties.

What to see:

Perast, first recorded in 1336 as a small fishing village, became part of the Venetian Republic along with Kotor and flourished in the 18th century. During this era, nineteen Baroque palaces, seventeen Catholic churches, and two Orthodox churches were erected.

Our Lady of the Rocks (Gospa od Škrpjela): The Adriatic’s only man-made island. For 200 years, townspeople scuttled pirate ships and their old vessels to create a plateau where the Church of Our Lady now stands. Tourists can enjoy a brief boat ride from Perast to visit the church.
St. George Island: Features a Benedictine abbey first mentioned in 1166. Although landing on the island is not permitted as it is closed to tourists, boats provide close-up views.
Palaces: One notable example is Zmaević Palace, which served as a residence for archbishops.
Perast Museum: Housed in Bujovic Palace, it details Perast’s Venetian period.
Fašinada Festival: Held annually on July 22, this beautiful event sees townspeople load their boats with stones and drop them into the sea around the island. Hundreds of sailing boats also participate in a regatta.

Beaches:

Perast Plaža: A small beach with a concrete terrace not far from the centre. It features three water entrances and one diving platform.
Peskovita Plaža Perast: A small, crowded beach but with very pretty views. The water deepens quickly, so care is needed.

3. Budva (Population: 17,500)

Budva, a 2,500-year-old gem on the Adriatic Sea.

From strolls through the Old Town to the beach in minutes—pure bliss.

After exploring Kotor and Perast, Budva on the Montenegrin coast is a must-visit. Its central location makes it an ideal base for trips to Kotor Bay, the southern coast including Bar and Ulcinj, and various national parks.

In brief:

  • Charming Old Town.
  • Numerous beaches within and close to the city.
  • Convenient for trips to other cities.
  • Lively nightlife with bars and discos.
  • Crowded during peak tourist season.

Walking around the city is a real treat, thanks to its charming historic buildings. Additionally, you’ll find a plethora of restaurants, bars, shops, and tourist attractions. The town centre features a large beach and a vibrant yacht harbour where you can embark on sea excursions.

Budva is the ultimate destination for party lovers and beach bashes, with its vibrant nightlife centred around the Old Town and seaside promenade.

If you’re looking for a quieter scene, the nearby villages of Bečići and Rafailovići are perfect. Bečići is great for family holidays, boasting excellent transport links, attractions, and an aqua park. Rafailovići offers more budget-friendly accommodation and tends to be less crowded.

What to see

The Old Town (Stari Grad): A delightful, smaller counterpart to Kotor’s Old Town with winding alleys, churches, and shops.
The Citadel (Saint Mary’s Fortress): A picturesque location with stunning views over Budva Bay. Entry to the Citadel’s top is free for restaurant guests, otherwise, there’s a €5 fee.
The Podmaine Monastery: The former residence of Montenegrin metropolitans. Visitors should cover their knees and shoulders when visiting.
Mogren Fortress: Free entry to explore these ruins from the 19th century, part of Austro-Hungarian fortifications. There is a steep path leading up from Mogren Beach towards the fort.
Ballerina Monument: Symbolic of Budva, located just a five-minute scenic walk along the sea. The statue, known as the Dancing Girl (42.27761, 18.83561), is backed by the picturesque Old City, ideal for photos.

Why is there a ballerina statue in Budva?

Legend has it that a young ballerina, hopelessly in love with a Budva sailor, waited for him on a rock by the sea every day. He had promised to come back to her, but he never returned. Tragically, she waited there until her death. Serbian sculptor Gradimir Aleksić created this statue in 1965 to immortalize her story.

Beaches

Bečići Beach. Photo: Stefan Kostić

Jaz Beach. Photo: Laurynas Žižys

Near Budva, there are many beaches, making it an ideal base for your holiday if you enjoy sunbathing and swimming.

Slovenska Plaža: Budva’s main beach, featuring sandy stretches, pebbled areas, and concrete spots, complete with changing facilities, bars, and a seaside promenade. Expect higher visitor numbers during peak season.
Mogren: Located 1.5 km from central Budva, Mogren is divided into two areas: Mogren I and the quieter Mogren II. Both beaches offer sand and pebbles, equipped with loungers, showers, and cafes.
Bečići: Situated 4 km from central Budva, Bečići features wide sandy-pebble beaches with loungers, cafes, and restaurants. You’ll find a range of large hotels and apartments. However, when apartment hunting, take care: chasing that perfect panoramic view could land you accommodation high up on the hill. While the map might suggest the sea is just a stone’s throw away, be prepared for a steep climb down to the beach—and back up again.
Rafailovići: 5 km from central Budva, Rafailovići offers sandy-pebble beaches with amenities similar to those at Bečići.
Kamenovo: 6 km from Budva, Kamenovo provides a beach setting with sand and pebbles and is close to several cafes.
Jaz Beach: 6 km towards Tivat, this beach features sand and pebbles with nearby grocery stores and restaurants.

4. Sveti Stefan (Population: 400)

Enchanted by Sveti Stefan’s quaint allure.

Sveti Stefan is a charming, tranquil town near Budva, renowned for its island fortress now converted into a luxurious hotel.

In brief:

  • Higher prices than elsewhere in Montenegro.
  • Stunning views.
  • Some of the least crowded beaches.
  • Absence of nightlife or evening entertainment.
  • Hilly terrain with steep stairs to the beach.

In the mid-20th century, the fortress and ancient houses on Saint Stephen Island were transformed into a hotel, establishing it as Montenegro’s premier luxury holiday destination. Notable guests have included Marilyn Monroe, Elizabeth Taylor, and members of the British royal family.

Today, it hosts the luxurious Aman Sveti Stefan resort. Access to the island is limited to hotel guests or visitors to its expensive restaurant. If you’re not planning to splurge, you can still admire the island from above or from the beach — it’s quite a sight.

The elite status of the island influences Sveti Stefan village: on average, hotel and restaurant prices are 20-40% higher than the rest of Montenegro. However, this price barrier reduces tourist flow, ensuring it remains relatively quiet even in peak season.

The local terrain is hilly, so if you’re not up for daily climbs and descents on steep stairs, opt for accommodation closer to the sea. Sveti Stefan is easily accessible from Budva, which is just 6 km away, or any other coastal location.

What to see

The Island is the most famous landmark here. There are few other leisure options:

Park Milocher in Pržno Village: Once a royal botanical garden, featuring olive groves, ancient cedars, and pine forests. There’s a small cave in one of the rocks, and a scenic walking path leads from Pržno Village to Sveti Stefan.
Praskvica Monastery: A beautiful Orthodox church with splendid views over Sveti Stefan. The pathway from Pržno village goes up to the main road; the last part across the main road can be challenging due to the lack of sidewalks. The church’s beauty and the coastal views are rewarding.

Beaches

Sveti Stefan Beach: A fine-pebble beach to the left of the isthmus connecting the island to the mainland. Public access allows for sunbed rentals ranging from €30 to €60, depending on proximity to the water.
Sveti Stefan Plaža 2: To the right of the isthmus, featuring pale pink small pebbles. Access is exclusive to hotel guests, or you can rent two sunbeds and an umbrella for about €180 per day.
Milocer King’s Beach: A beautiful sandy beach that becomes pay-to-access in high season. Access costs €200, so it remains largely unused.
Queen’s Beach: A charming 120m sandy beach located near King’s Beach, in its own separate cove. Free for guests of the Kraljicina Plaza Hotel, or a pay-to-access fee applies for others.

5. Petrovac (Population: 1,400)

Petrovac

Photo from April; it’s bustling here in summer.

Drawn to the rugged beauty of these rocky shores.

Petrovac is a charming spot on the coast between Budva and Bar. It’s a small and cozy town, nestled among pine trees with surrounding olive groves. I’m particularly fond of its beautiful rocky shores. The beach is just 600 meters long and can get quite crowded.

In brief:

  • Beautiful rocky shores.
  • Nature trails.
  • Deep waters near the shore.
  • Modern constructions.
  • Convenient for reaching other coastal towns.

What to see

While there aren’t many historic sites in Petrovac, the natural trails more than make up for it.

Kastio Castle: Built by the Venetians in the 16th century, Castelo fortress stands by the sea. Visiting at sunrise offers an unforgettable experience.
Hiking trail Reževići: An easy walk from Petrovac to the lovely Perazića Do beach. The 1.6 km trail includes three tunnels and stunning sea views.
Two islets in the sea: About 1 km offshore lie two small islands. You can find boat tours at Petrovac port. One islet houses the Orthodox Church of St. Nedjelja with remnants of a small chapel. Climb the stairs to the top for a panoramic view. The second, Katič, hosts some pine trees and is a protected nature reserve due to its biodiversity value.

Beaches

The town is situated in a bay, where the water is slightly warmer. The seabed drops off sharply a few meters from the shore.

Petrovačka Plaža: The main beach in Petrovac is 600 meters long, covered with gravel, and within walking distance from any local accommodation. Sunbed rental is €20 for two beds and an umbrella, and there is a small free section. The beach bustles with bars, restaurants, and activities such as water biking, boat and jet ski rentals, and boat tours.
Lučica Plaža: Located 10 minutes on foot from the main beach, Luchice Beach is 200 meters long and less affected by wind during stormy weather. It features a bar and a restaurant and is divided into a wild section and a paid-access section, where two sunbeds and an umbrella cost €10.
Plaža Perazića Do: A 25-minute walk from Petrovac beach, this nice pebble beach has a mainly stony shoreline, so swimming shoes are advisable. Sunbeds with an umbrella costs €20.

6. Sutomore (Population: 2,000)

Sutomore’s beaches fill up fast during peak season. Photo: Oleksandr Kinshov

Seeking a spot to sunbathe and party? Sutomore, with its vibrant beaches and lively bars, is an ideal small resort town. The promenade is teeming with bars, fast-food cafes, restaurants, and nightclubs, providing a plethora of entertainment options. Additionally, you will find that prices are generally more affordable than in Budva.

In brief:

  • Affordable resort.
  • Scenic natural surroundings.
  • Beautiful but crowded beaches.
  • Well-connected by public transport.

What to see

Haj Nehaj Fortress: Located just outside the town, this fortress sits atop a hill, offering panoramic views of Sutomore and Bar. The walls are well-preserved, and the remains of a church are visible inside. Several hiking trails lead to the top, with the shortest starting from Zagradje.

Beaches:

Plaža Sutomore: The main beach in Sutomore is one of the busiest in Montenegro. It features a mix of rocky and sandy patches, with numerous cafes available. Sunbed and umbrella rentals are available for €6, though some areas can be somewhat untidy.
Plaža Zlatna Obala: Situated 500 meters from the main beach, this smaller beach is pebbled and rocky, offering natural shade from trees, especially in the morning.
Devachen Beach: Located on the opposite side of the main beach, this rocky beach can get crowded but retains a wild and picturesque charm. Access is via a 350-meter-long pedestrian tunnel.
Plaža Milene Dravić: Similar to other beaches in Sutomore, it tends to be very crowded. The beach has rocky areas interspersed with sandy sections.

7. Bar (Population: 15,900)

Stari Bar: ancient ruins against mountain backdrops.

Bar is certainly worth visiting, particularly to explore Stari Bar. The old town is abundant in architectural landmarks and is considered one of Montenegro’s most distinguished sites. The newer section of Bar contains Montenegro’s primary seaport, spanning a significant portion of the coastline. Despite the port’s dominance, some beaches are also available.

In brief:

  • Fascinating old town.
  • Abundant greenery.
  • Numerous walking opportunities.
  • Quite good transport links.
  • A major port in the city centre.

The coastal area around Bar is populated with oaks, laurels, myrtles, oleanders, and more. The region thrives with tangerines, oranges, lemons, pomegranates, and ancient olive trees. Ginkgo biloba trees grow in the park of King Nikola’s palace.

What to see

Stari Bar: Located 3 km from the new part of Bar and the coast. A serene and picturesque place for walking, surrounded by mountains resembling triangular sandwiches. A charming old-style road lined with shops and restaurants leads to the extensive grounds of the old fortress. Entrance is €3, and you can easily spend two hours exploring ancient ruins and some restored buildings.
King Nikola’s Palace: Situated along the shoreline in new Bar. Built in 1885, the palace now houses a collection of antiquities, folk costumes, and royal furniture.

Beaches

Plaža Žukotrlica:  This compact beach is shaded by pine trees but becomes crowded in the summer. Its rocky shoreline necessitates swimming shoes. The area buzzes with activity, featuring several lively pubs.
Barska Plaža: A small beach near King Nikola’s Palace. It’s pebbly, and sunbathing directly on a towel may not be very comfortable.
Bigovica: A peaceful spot rarely visited by tourists. There might be some litter on the beach, but it is cleared before the season starts. Reaching this beach requires a 40-minute hike, so be sure to bring plenty of water. The sunsets here are unmatched.

8. Ulcinj (Population: 10,700)

Mala Plaža buzzes amidst Ulcinj’s shops and eateries.

Dining by the sea, a delightful experience. Photo: Fineas Anton

Ulcinj, situated on the southern coast of Montenegro near the Albanian border, may particularly appeal to those interested in the sea and resorts with sandy beaches.

In brief:

  • Longest beach in Montenegro.
  • Relatively inexpensive resort.
  • Distinctive Eastern flair.
  • Longer journey from airports.
  • Limited nightlife options.

The city is generally cheaper than other parts of Montenegro, especially Kotor and Budva. It is harder and takes longer to reach from Tivat and Podgorica airports.

What to see

Ulcinj Fortress: According to legend, it was here that Cervantes conceived the character of Dulcinea, Don Quixote’s beloved. Today, the fortress offers not only splendid walking opportunities but also houses an array of restaurants and cafes.
Museum of Local History in Ulcinj:  This small museum offers insights into Ulcinj’s rich history. Entry fee is €1.50.
Solana Ulcinj:  Once a salt factory, this extensive park is ideal for walking or cycling, with ample opportunities to observe a variety of birds. Bringing binoculars is recommended for spotting flamingos and pelicans.

Beaches

Small Beach (Mala Plaža): The main city beach, known for its distinctive black sand and gentle slope into the water. It can become overcrowded and may require cleaning during peak season.
Women’s Beach (Ženska Plaža): Featuring a concrete shoreline with rocky sea entry, this beach is celebrated for its therapeutic spring, infused with sulfur, radium, and sea salts from an underwater source. This beach is exclusively for women, with an entry fee of €8 that includes a sunbed and umbrella. It opens officially at 8 am, but access is free for everyone before this time.
Albatros Beach: Rocky with stone slabs and a rocky sea bed, stairs for water access. The upper platforms offer shade under the trees, while lower levels feature sun umbrellas. Sun loungers are free for Hotel Albatros guests but cost €2.50 for others. Part of this beach is nudist.
Limani: A pebble beach, relatively wild with few visitors. It can be quite slippery and challenging to enter the water.
Limani II: Mixed pebbles and concrete slabs. Two sunbeds and an umbrella cost €15 in the second row. There’s also a bar. The shore is stony, then sandy beyond.
Velika Plaža: At 13 km long, this is the longest beach in Montenegro, located south of Ulcinj. Noted for its brown volcanic sand. The shallow waters extend several tens of meters, making it safe for children. The beach often has a lot of small trash.

9. Tivat (Population: 9,500)

The Regent Porto Montenegro Hotel holds private parties for Forbes-listed celebrities.

Tivat provides a quieter, more intimate setting for relaxation. Even during the busy summer months, it remains less crowded compared to popular destinations like Budva and Kotor.

In brief:

  • Developing resort.
  • Relatively uncrowded.
  • Plenty of cafes, restaurants, and shops.
  • Most beaches located outside the city.
  • Airport nearby.

The Pine Promenade frequently hosts large concerts, festivals, and celebrations. For example, the theatre season kicks off in August. At Christmas and New Year’s, it features an outdoor skating rink and a traditional fair, while February sees the carnival come to town. The promenade is also home to large sailing ships and yachts starting at €1 million, providing a picturesque backdrop for photos.

A major plus for Tivat is its level landscape, numerous cafes, restaurants, shops, and child-friendly walking areas. Prices are generally reasonable, though some upscale spots can be more expensive. It’s also conveniently close to one of the country’s two airports.

What to see

Although Tivat’s roots stretch back to pre-Roman times, it lacks significant architectural landmarks.

Porto Montenegro:  A modern marina area with yachts, featuring boutiques and eateries, offering a slice of mini-Monaco. The complex is open for any tourist to stroll through.
Maritime Heritage Museum: Displays items retrieved from the Adriatic seabed, including submarines and military equipment. A large 50-meter Yugoslav submarine is stationed near the entrance, where guided tours are offered.
Buća Summer Hause: A 500-year-old site that includes a residence, Saint Michael’s Chapel, service buildings, and a porch. The local history museum (Muzej i galerija tivat) on the second floor is worth a visit.

Beaches

In Tivat itself, the beach area is small, covered with fine pebbles and some sharp underwater rocks, so swimming shoes are a must. There are better options just outside the town:

Selyanovo: Located 2 km from Tivat, this area offers the closest sandy-pebble beaches, Beach 5C and Plaža Ponta.
Donja Lastva: Situated 3 km from Tivat, this beach boasts a pure sandy shoreline.
Kalardovo: 5 km from the town centre, near the airport, this family-friendly beach provides a gentle sea entry, children’s and sports facilities, and a unique view of plane take-offs.
Nearby Prevlaka Island is noted for the semi-ruined Archangel Michael Monastery and pristine small-pebble beaches.
Plavi Horizonti Plaža: 14 km from Tivat, known for its sandy expanse interspersed with a few rocks and a clean seabed. The shallow waters extend 50 meters out before deepening suddenly, making it ideal for families.

10. Žabljak (Population: 1,700)

Žabljak

Exploring Žabljak’s stunning landscapes.

Tara Bridge, standing at 365 meters and constructed in 1940, is complemented by nearby cafes and facilities.

For those eager to thoroughly explore Durmitor National Park, Žabljak serves as an ideal base. Situated right within the park, this area hosts renowned attractions like the Tara River Canyon, the Đurđevića Tara Bridge, numerous glacial lakes, and a plethora of other natural wonders.

Žabljak, perched at an altitude of 1,456 meters, is the highest town in the Balkans. Despite its small size, it is fully equipped with all the necessary infrastructure, including cafes, shops, and hotels, making it an ideal spot for a prolonged stay.

In brief:

  • Nestled in the mountains, far from the sea.
  • A year-round resort.
  • Surrounded by natural and man-made attractions.
  • Well-developed infrastructure.

Žabljak is a perfect destination for all seasons, attracting nature lovers and trekkers in the summer, and skiers and snowboarders in the winter. There are two ski slopes on the mountains of Javorovača and Savin Kuk. The first, with about 800 meters of slopes, suits beginners and offers a day ski pass for €10. The second, extending 4,600 meters, presents more of a challenge, with a day pass costing €15.

What to see

Although Žabljak itself may not boast specific landmarks, its surroundings are brimming with breathtaking sights:

Tara River Canyon: Recognized as the world’s second-deepest canyon, it plunges to depths of up to 1,300 meters and is famed for its stunning turquoise waters.
Đurđevića Tara Bridge: This elegant and majestic bridge, the highest vehicular bridge in Europe, spans the Tara River. It is located 23 km from Žabljak, roughly a 30-minute drive.
Black Lake (Crno Jezero): The most celebrated among the 18 glacial lakes in the Durmitor massif, Black Lake is accessible on foot from Žabljak via Njegoševa Street, about a 3 km trek. A picturesque forest path circles the lake and leads into deeper forest areas towards waterfalls.
Mountain peak Ćurevac: At 1,626 meters, this peak offers the highest viewpoint over the canyon. The hike is manageable for all, including children, taking about 20 to 30 minutes from the parking area. The final 300-meter stretch involves a steep climb, requiring sturdy footwear, so no flip-flops.

What else to visit in Montenegro?

In Montenegro, you can purchase excursions nearly everywhere, even on the beach. Alternatively, you might find intriguing routes through a private guide. If you’re not keen on guided tours and prefer to explore independently, here are some top destinations that are tourist favourites and well worth your time.

Religious heritage

Montenegro is dotted with ancient, active monasteries such as Ostrog, Morača, Cetinje, and several others. Dress modestly when visiting, covering shoulders and knees.


Ostrog, Montenegro’s most visited monastery. Expect traffic jams on the way.

Ostrog Monastery: Perched at an altitude of 900 meters, this 15th-century monastery continues to be home to 12 monks. Remember, photography inside is not allowed. A pilgrimage to Ostrog is worthwhile for anyone, regardless of religious beliefs. It’s accessible by scheduled buses from Nikšić or Podgorica, or by car from other areas. Avoid the high summer season; it’s as crowded as Vatican City, with terrible and lengthy traffic jams on narrow roads.

Morača is famous for its frescoes and beekeeping.

Morača Monastery: Founded in 1252, this Orthodox monastery is renowned for its well-preserved frescoes and a pleasant garden with beehives. It’s usually quieter than the busy Ostrog Monastery, even during summer.

Cetinje Monastery is located right in the city.

Cetinje Monastery:  Built in 1484, this active Orthodox monastery offers a tranquil retreat from the usual tourist paths. Its peaceful ambience makes it an excellent stop for those visiting Cetinje.

Durmitor National Park

View the Đurđevića Tara Bridge from a different angle.

Durmitor has loads of trails—plan your route in advance to make the most of it!

Escaped to a tiny mountain lake with sparkling clear waters.

This prime natural attraction is famous for the Tara River Canyon, Đurđevića Tara Bridge, pristine lakes, and stunning mountain scenery. Consider staying a few days in Žabljak to truly appreciate its beauty. If pressed for time, a guided tour is advisable, as reaching these spots in one day without a car can be difficult. Group tours from Budva cost between €45-60 per person.

Skadar Lake

Stumbled upon this stunning, luminous forest—nothing like this back home!

Enjoy a boat ride, relax on Skadar Lake’s pebble beaches, and soak in the breathtaking mountain vistas. Be mindful that parts of the lakeshore may be overgrown, which could limit swimming areas.

Recognized as one of Europe’s largest bird reserves, Skadar Lake hosts 270 species of birds, including pelicans, offering a prime location for birdwatching enthusiasts.

The official entrance to Skadar Lake National Park is located in the fishing town of Virpazar. Visitors flock here to embark on boat tours and savour local fish at nearby restaurants. Sample the rich and hearty  ‘riblja čorba’, a traditional fish soup prepared with a mix of several local fish varieties.

Entry to the park costs €4, which is necessary for renting a boat.

After your lake adventure, visit viewpoints like Virpazar, Zaboj, or Circular for even more spectacular scenery.

Lovćen National Park

Escape to this refreshing retreat for some cool mountain air when it gets too warm in the towns and beaches below. Located near Kotor, the park is accessible via approximately 460 steps to the summit. The climb is relatively straightforward, but it’s important to keep a close watch on children, as the viewpoints are unfenced and lack railings.
At the summit, you’ll discover the mausoleum of Petar Petrović Njegoš, a revered national hero of Montenegro, celebrated both as a prince and a poet.

Admission fees are separate: €3 for the park and €8 for adults to access the mausoleum.
The air at the top remains pleasantly cool, even during the peak of summer, with temperatures typically ranging between 17-20°C, accompanied by a crisp breeze—be sure to bring a hoodie or sweater. Please note that drones and pets are not permitted in the mausoleum area.

What about prices in Montenegro?

Prices in Montenegro are on the rise. It’s advisable to visit before they escalate further.

A decade ago, Montenegro was much more affordable. Today, prices, particularly along the coast, have increased. However, heading slightly inland can significantly reduce costs.

High cost: Sveti Stefan, Kotor, Perast are among the more expensive locales in Montenegro.
Moderate cost: Budva offers slightly more affordable options compared to Kotor and Perast, with a variety of accommodations.
Budget-friendly: Bečići, Herceg Novi, and Petrovac offer moderate pricing with good value for money.
Local favourites: The southern beaches, such as Ulcinj and Bar, are popular among locals and generally offer more affordable options than the northern beaches, albeit with less pristine conditions.

However, prices drop sharply once you venture into Montenegro’s inland regions, such as Durmitor National Park or Biogradska Gora.

These practical details should help you budget your trip, offering insights into everyday expenses from accommodations to dining and transport, and assisting you in navigating your stay in this beautiful, albeit increasingly pricey, country.

Accommodation

A typical room at a mid-range price.

While Montenegro has a limited number of hostels, dormitory beds are available starting at €14 per night, typically including amenities like free Wi-Fi and kitchen facilities.

Budget hotels start at €29 per night in the off-season for a double room. In summer, prices range from €35 to €70 per night. Many budget hotels include free breakfast. Resort prices depend on proximity to the beach: the closer to the sea, the more expensive it is. However, it often gets noisy near the promenades, with tourists and locals strolling until morning.

Apartments, houses, and rooms on Airbnb are available throughout the country. Prices for private rooms start at €25-30 per night. Renting a whole house or apartment will cost at least €40-65 per night.

Montenegro also has quite a few campsites. A basic plot without electricity costs about €14-20 per night for two people. Tents can only be pitched in designated areas.

Food

Montenegrin shops are well-stocked with locally produced olive oil and olives. Photo: Nurlan Isazade

Montenegro’s cuisine is distinctly influenced by Turkish and Italian culinary traditions, setting it apart from its Balkan neighbours. Along the coast, you’ll find a lot of restaurants offering pizza and pasta.

Local Specialties: Don’t miss traditional dishes like punjene paprike (stuffed peppers), sarma (cabbage leaves stuffed with minced pork and rice), and goulash served with mashed potatoes.

Njeguški pršut, a Montenegrin version of Italian prosciutto and Spanish jamón, along with Njeguški cheese, are particularly beloved by the locals and tourists.

Montenegro is so unique that there are no McDonald’s. However, fast food is available. A popular choice is burek, a thin layered pastry with various fillings – minced meat, cheese, spinach, or potato, costing from €2.5 per serving.

Be sure to try kajmak, a product similar to clotted cream. A 250ml box costs €1.7—€2 and can be found in any supermarket. However, it’s better if you try it fresh at the market.

You can drink tap water and from drinking fountains outdoors (where it’s not allowed, there will be a special sign). The water served with coffee in cafes is also from the tap.

Locals enjoy drinking beer, homemade wine, and particularly rakia, a 40-% fruit distillate. Many people produce rakia at home, which can result in even higher strengths. They make rakia from various fruits, with lozovača, or grape rakia, being especially popular in Montenegro.

For example, some prices in summer 2023:

Restaurants

A meal at an inexpensive traditional restaurant typically costs €16-25 for two people. The portions are huge.

A small cup of local coffee costs €1.5-2. Initially, I ordered espresso and didn’t like it. Then the locals taught me to ask for local coffee – it’s similar to Turkish coffee, with foam, and I really liked it. I even brought back several packets of ground coffee.

Supermarkets

If you plan to cook for yourself, groceries for one person per week will cost €40-45 for staples like rice, lentils, vegetables, and some meat or fish. Add at least another €15 if you, like me, eat a lot of greens and fruits. Vegetables and fruits are of better quality at markets, but are cheaper in supermarkets. Popular supermarkets include Voli, Idea, Aroma, MegaMarket, and Franca.

Chicken: €3 per kg
Potatoes: €1 per kg
Cucumbers: €2 per kg
Tomatoes: €1.50 to €3 per kg
Nectarines: €1.50 per kg
Milk: €1 to €1.50 per litre
Grano padano cheese: 200g for €6

Eggs: €2 for 10 pieces
Basmati rice: €2 per kg
Beef: Starting from €7 per kg
Fish: Starting from €8 per kg
Sweet bun: €1.50 each
Mineral water: €0.70 for a 1.5-litre bottle
Red wine: Ranges from €3.50 to €10 per bottle

Transport

Airport transfers: €20 from Tivat to Bečići (30 km), and €38 from Podgorica to Budva (70 km).
Bus fares: €4-6 for Budva to Kotor (23 km), and €2.5-3 for Kotor to Tivat (11 km).
Luggage fee on buses: €1.
Taxi fare from Bečići to Budva (3 km): €7

Museums and excursions

Museum tickets: €2 to €8.
Bus tours: €15 to €55.
Rafting on the Tara River: €40.
Beach facilities (two sunbeds and an umbrella): €8 to €15 per day.

Tourist Tax

Adults: €1.50 per day.
Children (ages 12-18): €0.50 per day.
Tourists are required to register and pay this tax within 24 hours of arrival. Registration is typically handled by hotels, but those staying in apartments might need to manage this themselves at a post office or tourist information centre. A €200 fine is imposed for non-compliance, and border guards may check registration when leaving the country.

Post

A postcard – €1
A stamp for sending a postcard to Germany costs €0.95, and to Australia – €1.05

How to buy a local SIM card

Locations: Airports, mobile phone shops, newsstands. A passport is required for purchase.
Special tourist rates are available from Telenor, M:tel, and T-Mobile, with similar tariffs among these providers.
Cost in summer 2023: €10 for 500 GB of data over two weeks, €15 for a month. Note: Prices exclude SMS and call minutes.
Mobile internet is typically faster and more reliable than hotel Wi-Fi, with coverage extending even to mountainous regions.

Money in Montenegro

Despite not being part of the European Union, Montenegro uses the euro as its official currency.

You can pay by card almost everywhere, including supermarkets, small shops, hotels, and cafes. Nevertheless, carrying some cash is advisable for purchases at local markets or in buses.

How to get to Montenegro

Passengers landing at Tivat fly over the luxurious Porto Montenegro yacht marina. Photo: Miljan Mijatović

Montenegro has two international airports: Tivat (the main one), located on the coast of the Bay of Kotor; and Podgorica, the capital.

Podgorica is served by airlines such as Ryanair, Wizz Air, and Air Montenegro, while Tivat receives flights from EasyJet, Scandinavian Airlines, airBaltic, among others. Neither airport boasts good public transport links. In summer, the buses are often overcrowded.

How to get to Budva, Kotor, Bar

Unfortunately, there are no direct buses from the airports to Budva, Kotor, Bar, and other destinations.

Tivat Airport

The nearest airport to Budva, Kotor, and Herceg Novi is Tivat Airport.

By bus:
There is no direct bus from Tivat Airport to the coastal resorts. The most budget-friendly option is to walk 150 meters to the Jadranska magistrala (the highway connecting Tivat and Budva) and catch a passing bus to Budva, Podgorica, or Bar. They run 1-2 times per hour. Tickets cost around €3-7. The advantage is the low cost, but the downside is waiting on the highway in the heat with your luggage.

Alternative 1: During the peak season, tourist buses often pick up groups. If you see such a bus, you can ask the driver if they can take you to Budva, Kotor, etc., for a fee (€3-7).

Alternative 2: Another option is to take a taxi to the Tivat bus station, about 1.5 km from the airport. The journey by bus from Tivat Bus Station to Budva takes 25-35 minutes, and tickets cost €3-4 depending on the operator. Check the schedule on busticket4.me.

By taxi:
A taxi from Tivat Airport to Budva costs €45-50 per car and takes about 25 minutes.

Podgorica

Podgorica Airport is further from Budva or Kotor, and like Tivat, there are no direct buses from the airport to the resorts.

By train and bus:
You can take a train for €2 (about a 1 km walk from the airport to the rail station) or a taxi for €10-15 to the Podgorica bus station. From there, you can catch one of the more than 30 daily buses to Budva or 10 buses to Bar. Tickets to Budva cost €6-7, and to Bar, €4.50. The entire journey from the airport to Budva will take at least 2 hours and to Bar about 1 hour.

By taxi:
A taxi from Podgorica Airport to Budva costs €65-70 depending on the company and takes about 1 hour and 10 minutes.

For the cheapest option from Podgorica Airport to Bar, take the train (1 hour, €2). Walk for 15-20 minutes to the Aerodrom train station, then wait for the train.

You can similarly get to other Montenegrin resorts. Just check the train and bus schedules, compare the prices with taxis, and plan your trip accordingly.

Dubrovnik

Another option is to fly into Dubrovnik Airport in Croatia, which is close to the Montenegrin border. From the airport, head into Dubrovnik. Buses to Budva run several times a day from there. The trip takes about 2.5 hours and tickets cost €26-27.

Even when buying tickets online, you still need to print them at the ticket office and pay a service fee.

Can you do public transportation in Montenegro?

Yes, but be prepared for a bit of an adventure.

Buses operate along the entire coast from Herceg Novi to Ulcinj. Unfortunately, buses don’t run from the coast to inland destinations such as canyons or ski resorts.

Due to Montenegro’s laid-back approach, buses don’t always adhere to a schedule, which might result in waits of up to an hour at stops.

Taking a Montenegrin bus is truly an experience to remember: the upholstery is worn, the windows are grubby, and the air is thick with the smell of diesel. It’s often crowded like a tin of sardines! Additionally, be ready for traffic jams, especially on winding mountain roads.

My advice if you’re travelling without a car is to arm yourself with patience and always allow extra time for your journey.

For international travel, such as to Dubrovnik, buses are also available. You can find the latest schedules and pricing on the website busticket4.me. Note that even if you purchase tickets online, you’ll still need to print them at the ticket office and pay a service fee. Some drivers might also charge an extra €1 per piece of luggage, although it’s free to carry luggage on larger international buses.

When to visit Montenegro


Late April vibes: T-shirt weather with a sweater on standby, just in case.

Mandarins fresh on the tree in early May, not just in the shops—feels like a miracle for us northerners!

Although Montenegro’s beaches are popular in June, July, and August, the best times to visit are April-May and September. These periods offer a more relaxed experience, allowing you to enjoy the seaside and explore historical sites, monasteries, canyons, and waterfalls with fewer tourists.

Montenegro’s summer climate is milder than in Turkey or Cyprus, but it can still get quite hot. Beaches often become overcrowded, making it hard to find space, and you might face long waits at restaurants and heavy traffic, especially on narrower roads.

Climate Summary

Spring
From April, sunny conditions return to the coast. However, with sea temperatures hovering around 17°C, only the most daring take to the waters—I proudly count myself among them! There’s nothing quite like the thrill of an early-season swim.

By late May, the water temperature rises to a comfortable 21°C, making it pleasant for many to enjoy a dip.

Summer
July is the warmest month, with temperatures reaching up to 35°C, and sea temperatures around 26°C. June and August are also sunny and warm.

Autumn
In September, the number of tourists begins to dwindle, yet the sea remains warm enough for swimming, with sea temperatures around 25°C and air temperatures ranging between 25°C to 28°C. Rainfall is infrequent, averaging about five days, typically occurring later in the month.

As September progresses, the water temperature drops to a brisk 18-19°C. Evenings may require a windbreaker and jeans. Nevertheless, the sea can remain warm throughout the month, providing generally pleasant conditions for swimming.

Winter
During winter, Montenegro’s focus shifts to the ski areas of Savin Kuk-Žabljak and Kolašin, with the holiday season starting in mid-December.
Along the coast, temperatures average around 10°C, with windy, overcast, and rainy conditions, which significantly lower accommodation costs.

How many days to spend in Montenegro

Majestic old fortifications of Kotor.

Montenegro is a small and compact country, and to get an overview, you’ll need about 7-10 days. During this time, you can explore 3-4 coastal cities such as Kotor, Perast, and Budva, and venture into the country’s interior to places like Lake Skadar and Durmitor National Park. This itinerary promises a beautiful and memorable trip.

Add as many days as you’d like to relax by the sea or in the mountains to make it a truly comprehensive and engaging vacation.

Is Montenegro safe?

Montenegro is generally safe for travellers, but it’s important to stay vigilant, particularly against pickpockets in tourist-heavy areas such as Kotor, Budva, Sveti Stefan, and Herceg Novi.

Precautions: Maintain a close watch on your belongings, wear cross-body bags to deter theft, and avoid leaving valuables unattended, particularly on public transport.

It’s best not to drink with the Montenegrins, especially when it comes to rakija—a strong alcoholic drink similar to vodka. Typically, it’s 40% alcohol, but homemade rakija can be 60% or more. While it is a gesture of hospitality to offer rakija to guests, limiting oneself to one serving or politely declining is recommended for those unaccustomed to strong spirits.

Montenegrins enjoy chatting with foreigners, and in 99.9% of cases, it’s a pleasant and harmless conversation. However, there’s a risk that someone might be trying to ingratiate themselves with you, and you could end up losing some belongings or making a strange, costly purchase. This is rare, but it’s something to be aware of.

Inhabitants of Montenegro tend to smoke quite heavily, so you might occasionally find yourself troubled by the smoke.

On the roads

Please be cautious on the roads. Montenegrin roads are typically narrow and winding, especially in more remote areas. Additionally, locals often disregard traffic rules.

Drivers may not maintain a safe distance between vehicles, tend to overtake on curves by moving into the oncoming lane, and frequently exceed speed limits.

However, there’s no need to be alarmed by the constant beep-beep—it’s simply a way local drivers greet each other, show respect, or signal to yield the road, among other things. Here, a ‘beep’ is not a warning of danger but a friendly sound.

In nature

Oleander thrives in parks and gardens across Montenegro. All parts of the plant are poisonous.

Giant hogweed is commonly found in rural regions. Its sap can cause severe burns when exposed to sunlight.

Weather: If you’re planning a mountain hike, make sure to check the weather in advance and bring appropriate gear and clothing, as it is colder and windier at higher altitudes.

Flora: Oleander, prevalent in Montenegrin parks and gardens, is beautiful but toxic. Avoid contact with this plant, as all its parts are poisonous. Additionally, giant hogweed, found in rural areas, can cause severe burns if its sap is exposed to sunlight.

Fauna: Exercise caution regarding snakes, spiders, and scorpions during hikes, especially off the beaten path. Although encounters are rare in heavily trafficked tourist spots and coastal areas, vigilance is crucial.

Ticks: Ticks, which are common across Europe, including Montenegro, can transmit diseases such as encephalitis. They are most active in spring. If you are hiking in mountainous or wooded areas, regularly check your body to ensure no ticks have attached themselves.

Do people speak English in Montenegro?

Local delights: find smoked ham, cheese, and honey at the roadside shop.

Official Language: Montenegrin, part of the Serbo-Croatian language group, is the official language. Speakers of other Slavic languages will generally find communication straightforward, although local accents and dialects may pose initial challenges.

English proficiency: English is commonly spoken in tourist areas, facilitating easier communication for international visitors. In contrast, rural areas may see less English usage, particularly among the older population.

Alphabets: Montenegro uses both Latin and Cyrillic scripts, with Latin predominantly appearing on public signage.

Menus: Restaurant menus typically offer translations in English, Russian, German, and often Italian, alongside Montenegrin.

Supermarkets: shoppers who want to know specific details about their food, such as whether products contain wheat or other forms of gluten, may face some challenges. In Montenegrin: wheat = pšenica, rye = raž, barley = ječam.

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