Ferrara doesn’t make top-ten lists or Instagram feeds — and thank God for that. It’s one of those rare places where life feels balanced: beautiful but not theatrical, historic but not frozen, interesting without trying too hard.
In brief:
- Population: About 130,000 — just the right size
- History: Once rivaled Venice and Milan in art, ambition, and influence
- UNESCO: The entire old town is protected — not just a token cathedral
I chose it as a base — practical location, good train links. But Ferrara turned out to be more than just convenient. It was the only place on my trip where I felt like I could breathe. No rush, no noise, just quiet streets, lived-in palaces, and locals who don’t treat you like a tourist.
The center is small and flat — ideal for walking. From the station to the castle it’s an easy 20 minutes. Or take a bus if you’ve overpacked or bought half a wheel of Parmesan. Bikes are part of the scene, but not the whole story.
Prices are another pleasant surprise. Coffee is cheap, food is excellent, and even a central apartment won’t empty your wallet. Compared to the tourist magnets nearby, Ferrara feels like a well-kept secret.
Where is Ferrara, Italy?
Ferrara sits in northern Italy, in the Emilia-Romagna region — the same one that gave the world Parmigiano, balsamic vinegar, and slow trains. It’s an easy one-hour ride from Bologna, a bit more from Venice, and just far enough off the tourist trail to stay peaceful. Picture it on the map: northeast of Florence, west of the Adriatic. Flat land stretching in all directions.
How to get to Ferrara?
Trains were fashionably late all week — just 5 to 10 minutes, but consistently so.
I flew into Treviso — a small airport used by low-cost airlines, where baggage claim feels like someone’s garage. From there, a quick bus took me to the train station, and then I caught a train to Ferrara. Some are direct, some with a change — either way, it’s straightforward.
You can also fly into Venice Marco Polo or Bologna. Both have better infrastructure and more flight options, and both connect easily to Ferrara by train. Just pick the one that suits your route — or your tolerance for airports.
When is the best time to visit Ferrara?
Ferrara welcomed me with sunshine and spring-like warmth — not a bad start at all.
It drizzled non-stop on my last day — not dramatic, just mildly persistent.
Forget what travel sites say — Ferrara isn’t really Mediterranean. The climate here is humid subtropical, with hot, muggy summers and chilly, damp winters. Spring and autumn are famously unstable, with fog, sudden showers, and the occasional sunshine breakthrough.
I visited in February and got lucky: 11 to 15°C all week, with just one light drizzle. Locals strolled under umbrellas as if nothing had changed. I wore my usual April jacket — and honestly, it felt like spring. If you’re coming from a northern country, winter here can feel surprisingly kind — just keep in mind the days are short, and skies tend to stay grey.
Locals say April–May and September are your best bet. Spring brings blooming gardens and fresh air — along with more rain (May is usually the wettest month). Summer can hit 31°C and feels even hotter thanks to high humidity and all that stone underfoot. Expect shade to be in short supply.
How many days to spend in Ferrara?
Give it at least two full days — enough to see the castle, wander the streets, eat well, and not rush. I stayed seven nights and used Ferrara as a base. Two days were for the city itself — one when I arrived, one before I left. The rest of the time I took trains: to Venice for Carnival, to Bologna, Florence, and even Rome. High-speed trains make this surprisingly doable. Rome in a day isn’t ideal, of course — more like a teaser than a visit.
I also thought about Padua or the little fishing town of Comacchio, but rain was in the forecast, so I stayed put. That turned out to be the right call: I finally took my time with the castle, and there just happened to be a chocolate festival near the cathedral. Sometimes not moving pays off.
Where to stay in Ferrara?
Anywhere in the historic center works well, but the area around the castle and the cathedral is especially convenient. You’ll find everything you need within a few blocks — cafés, restaurants, supermarkets, and more than one good espresso. It’s flat, quiet at night, and easy to navigate even if your sense of direction is terrible.
Both hotels and apartments are easy to find. I stayed near the castle and had no regrets — close enough to everything, but not in a tourist bubble (because Ferrara doesn’t really have one).
Where to eat?
Everything here makes you want to buy three of each. Minimalism didn’t stand a chance.
The sweets were dangerously good-looking. I tried to be strong. Mixed results.
That roasted pumpkin on the right? Surprisingly addictive. Should’ve bought more.
I split my meals between restaurants and my apartment — I like my greens, and Ferrara makes that easy. Even small supermarkets had a solid selection: fresh produce, local cheeses, and surprisingly good ready-made dishes. You’ll find Coop, Conad, Interspar, and a few local chains scattered around the center — all within walking distance.
I bought lentil soup, minestrone, roasted pumpkin, braised artichokes and fennel, risotto — all tasty, all around €2 to €4 per portion. Local markets had all kinds of salad greens, plus plenty of fruit stalls around the city, some open well into the evening.
If cooking isn’t your thing, don’t worry — there’s no shortage of restaurants. From classic trattorias to modern cafés, you’ll find something on nearly every corner. Prices are reasonable, and the food is reliably good.
Coffee is refreshingly affordable: espresso goes for €1.30–1.50, cappuccino for €2–2.50. A decent bottle of wine from the store starts at €4 — which makes staying in for dinner more than acceptable.
How to pay for the bus?
The easiest way? Just tap your bank card on the validator when you board — one tap, €1.50, done.
Prefer cash? You can buy a paper ticket at a Tabaccheria for the same price and validate it once you’re on board. Some older buses still have machines that take coins, but the fare jumps to €2. And no, the driver doesn’t sell tickets.
Sights to See in Ferrara in 1-2 Days
1. Estense Castle (Castello Estense)
I climbed one of the towers — solid views from solid walls.
Painted ceilings reflected in mirrors — no neck strain, full effect.
Lemons on a castle balcony. Not expected, but entirely welcome.
Right in the heart of the city stands Ferrara’s pride — a red-brick moated castle with four towers and a drawbridge, straight out of a medieval storybook. Built in 1385 as a fortress for the ruling Este family, it later became their residence — and, remarkably, it still looks much the same as it did in the 16th century.
It’s slightly reminiscent of Milan’s Sforza Castle, but more compact and surrounded by fewer tourists. Inside, you’ll find simple rooms with signs in Italian and English explaining what each one used to be — a kitchen, a prison, a bedroom. There’s not much furniture left, but the painted ceilings are still there, and huge mirrors help you admire them without risking neck strain. A small but genius touch.
You can buy a ticket just for the castle, or go for the combo that includes the Lion Tower — if you’re up for the steep climb.
2. Ferrara Cathedral and Trento – Trieste square
Market stalls pressed right against the cathedral — old habits linger.
Stone lions at the cathedral entrance. Calm, dignified, mildly unimpressed.
A gelateria with a view: just opposite the bell tower on Piazza Trento e Trieste.
The cathedral, dedicated to Saint George — Ferrara’s patron saint — was built between the 12th and 14th centuries. Its pinkish marble façade mixes Romanesque solidity with Gothic flair, topped off with a later-added bell tower. Stone lions sit by the entrance, keeping a calm, slightly amused watch. I couldn’t go inside (closed for restoration), but even from the outside, it’s worth the stop.
On weekends, the square turns into a proper stage — sometimes literally. One day I saw three local singers performing with such energy they had a small crowd dancing before the first chorus was over. Another time, the stalls were selling tiny cacti and succulents. I still regret not picking up a couple — they were adorable, and probably tougher than most travel souvenirs.
I also once stumbled on a sweets market: chocolates, nougat, pastries, honey — a sugar rush in open air. I picked up a few treats as souvenirs, pretending they were gifts.
If you haven’t had gelato yet, there’s a Grom right on the square — they use seasonal, natural ingredients. Or head to La Romana on Via Palestro 33 — a bit roomier, with covered gelato bins (which is always a good sign).
3. Municipal Palace (Palazzo Municipale)
You reach the square by passing through an arch — a bit hidden, very Italian.
Even in February, the square hums with life.
This was the first residence of the Este dukes — a long, terracotta-colored building with arched windows, a tower, and two bronze statues keeping guard. These days it houses city offices, but the grandeur hasn’t gone anywhere.
Right next to it is Piazza del Municipio — a narrow, rectangular square with arcades, outdoor cafés, and that wonderfully Italian mix of faded elegance and everyday noise. It’s surprisingly tucked away: you enter through an archway and suddenly find yourself in the middle of it all. Like in Bologna or Padua, everything’s pressed close together here — palaces, churches, old family homes. You never walk more than a block without stumbling onto something historic.
4. Volta Street (Via delle Volte)
The street is narrow, quiet, and full of curious old fragments you almost miss.
This narrow, arch-filled street is one of the most atmospheric corners of Ferrara. Walk under one arch, then another, then another — and suddenly you’re not in the 21st century anymore. It’s quiet, slightly shadowy, and full of texture.
The street runs parallel to the main one and is just a short stroll from the cathedral. Parts of it have been beautifully restored, with river pebbles underfoot — uneven, but very medieval. Some buildings lean a little, others are patched with different materials, but that only adds to the charm.
5. La Rotonda Foschini
Looks like an eye in the sky — harder to photograph than you’d think.
One of the first places I saw in Ferrara — I stumbled into it just after getting off the train, dragging my suitcase toward the apartment. It was evening, and the courtyard was glowing. I wasn’t even sure what it was at first, but it looked magical.
La Rotonda Foschini is a circular inner courtyard of the city’s 18th-century Communal Theater, just across from the castle on Corso della Giovecca 22. The theater opened in 1773 and has been renovated recently — beautifully so. The soft lighting, curved architecture, and unexpected quiet make it feel like a hidden stage. Even if you’re just passing through, it’s worth stopping and standing still for a minute.
6. Diamond Palace (Palazzo dei Diamanti)
The Diamond Palace was built between 1493 and 1503. Not a bad decade for facades.
8,500 marble blocks carved like diamonds — a façade that does subtle drama.
Just a ten-minute walk north of the castle stands one of Ferrara’s most eye-catching buildings — Palazzo dei Diamanti. Its facade is covered with thousands of pale stone blocks carved into pyramids, catching the light in different ways as you walk past.
Inside is the Pinacoteca Nazionale, with works by Garofalo, Filippi, Dossi, and Mantegna. You enter through a quiet courtyard, and a staircase tucked in the corner takes you up to the gallery. The same building also houses the city’s Gallery of Modern Art — so you can go from Renaissance altarpieces to 20th-century abstraction without changing address.
7. Massari Park
Taken in February. I can only imagine how lovely it gets in spring.
Massari Park isn’t about grand sights — and that’s exactly its charm. It’s a peaceful green space between Palazzo dei Diamanti and the Certosa, where you can stretch your legs, sit by a fountain, or just breathe under massive trees. Lebanese cedars, plane trees, oaks, chestnuts — the kind of trees that know how to throw shade, in the best possible way.
In summer, this place is a gift. And yes, there’s even a free public restroom — not beautiful, but there when you need it.
8. Botanical Garden (Orto Botanico di Ferrara)
Tucked between the Diamond Palace and Massari Park is a small botanical garden — not the most polished, but full of quiet charm. In February, there’s not much going on, but come spring or summer, it’s a lovely spot to wander for a bit of green.
The garden has around 700 plant species, spread across outdoor beds and greenhouses. There’s a pond with aquatic plants, a few carnivorous specimens, some graceful bald cypress, and a surprising variety of maples. It’s not dramatic, but if you like gardens, this one’s worth a slow lap.
Admission is free, and so is the peace and quiet.
9. Certosa di Ferrara
San Cristoforo alla Certosa — once a monastery church, now quietly monumental.
A place that naturally slows your step and sharpens your thoughts.
Originally a Carthusian monastery, the Certosa is now one of Ferrara’s most unexpected and peaceful places — part cemetery, part quiet sculpture garden. It’s about a 15-minute walk from the castle, and well worth the detour.
Built in 1551, the complex later became municipal property, and in the 19th century was turned into a monumental cemetery. Many of the tombs are surprisingly varied — some grand and theatrical, others small and deeply personal. Angels, weeping figures, inscriptions, even entire family scenes carved in stone — walking through it feels like leafing through a very still, very beautiful storybook.
There are no monks anymore, but the silence remains.
10. Il Castello Centro Commerciale
This shopping center is outside the old town — yes, there’s a bus, and yes, it’s worth the ride.
If you’re in need of groceries, a new frying pan, or just a break from Renaissance architecture, Ferrara’s biggest shopping center — Il Castello — is out on Via Giusti 4. It’s surprisingly large for such a low-key city.
Inside there’s a supermarket, stores for cosmetics, kitchenware, clothes, and everything in between. It’s also a good place to pick up practical souvenirs — the kind that won’t fall apart in your luggage or scream “tourist stall.” Ferrara isn’t big on souvenir shops, so this is a decent fallback.
There’s a food court (nothing exciting, and not exactly cheap), but a genuinely lovely playground outside — spacious, wooden, and well-kept.
Where to go from Ferrara?
Bologna is just half an hour by train — grand, lively, and very close.
One of the perks of Ferrara is how easy it is to get almost anywhere. I took direct trains to Venice, Rome, Florence, and Bologna — all without much fuss. For Rome and Florence, I booked high-speed train tickets in advance (prices creep up the closer you get to the date). Trains to Venice and Bologna run hourly and are always the same price, unless you go fancy with the fast ones.
Venice. I went for the Carnival and spent nine hours in the city — just enough to soak it in without feeling crushed. The trip itself was smooth and surprisingly relaxed, considering the event.
Rome. I saw a few iconic sights, but let’s be honest — one day is a teaser, not a visit. Still, worth it. I’ll be back.
Florence. I lived there for over a week a few years ago, so this time was all about nostalgia: a walk through old haunts and five tiny pasticcini — delicate little pastries barely the size of a coin. I didn’t need them. I had them anyway.
Bologna. Just a short ride away and full of arcades, towers, and corners that pull you in. I wandered aimlessly and ended up in the Archiginnasio Library — an old university building with centuries-old books, faded crests, and a reading room that smells like ink and history. Quietly spectacular.
I hadn’t planned to see so much — but Ferrara made it easy. And there were still places I didn’t get to: Padua, Ravenna, Modena, Parma, even Comacchio with its fishing boats and canals. All within reach, all waiting for next time.
Just Ferrara things
Ferrara wasn’t the flashiest stop on my trip — and that’s exactly why I loved it. It gave me space to slow down, eat well, walk aimlessly, and not feel like I was missing out. Just an ordinary Italian city with an extraordinary sense of calm. The kind of place you leave without needing to tick boxes.
A city of quiet streets, chocolate fairs you didn’t plan for, mirrors propped up so you can admire painted ceilings, and stone lions by the church. Of three-euro lentil soup and tiny markets with artichokes and greens so fresh they felt like a discovery. Not spectacular — just unmistakably itself.
