The Venetian Carnival takes place in February, sometimes spilling over into late January or early March. During these two weeks, the city transforms into a theater: streets and shops are adorned, citizens and festival-goers don elaborate costumes and masks, while decorated boats and gondolas glide along the Grand Canal. Five million people flock to witness this spectacle. This year, I was among them — let me share my unforgettable experience.
1. Finding Accommodation
My decision to go to Venice was spontaneous. I only started looking for accommodation two weeks before the trip. Since I also planned to explore other cities, I decided to stay not directly in Venice but somewhere nearby. I chose Ferrara — a charming town with a beautiful castle. A decent apartment for 7 nights cost me 450 euros. In Venice itself, such accommodation would have been twice as expensive. If I go to the carnival again, I will opt for Padua or Treviso for variety.
2. Train Station Arrival
I traveled to Venice by train. It takes 1-1.5 hours from Ferrara to the final station, Venice Santa Lucia, depending on the train. Trains run frequently, and a one-way ticket costs between 10 to 16 euros. At the Venice Santa Lucia station, there are plenty of cafes, snack bars, and shops. The restroom costs 1 euro.
3. Exploring the Grand Canal
The first thing I saw when I stepped out of the station building was the Grand Canal. It’s the most famous canal in Venice and essentially the main “street.” It cuts through the entire center. In Venice itself, people get around either by water or on foot. There is no surface transportation at all.
4. Dressing according to the weather
The carnival takes place in winter, and the weather can be rainy at this time. I was there on February 8th, and the day was overcast, and by evening, the wind picked up. The temperature ranged from plus 9 to plus 12 degrees Celsius. I wore a light jacket and a long-sleeved shirt, and I didn’t need the umbrella and rain poncho.
5. Planning Your Route
Since I decided to focus specifically on the carnival, I chose to walk along the Grand Canal to the main square, Piazza San Marco — it’s approximately 2 kilometers, which took me 4 hours! Along the way, I admired landmarks: churches, bridges, palaces, shops, had lunch, and exchanged pleasantries with numerous people in costumes. Most tourists also take this route, so I didn’t even need to look at the map.
6. Dining Options
Just 200-300 meters away from the main path, it’s quiet and deserted! On one of the smaller canals, I found a nice restaurant with pizzas priced at 11-12 euros (with seafood — 15 euros), and espresso was 2.5 euros. Everything was delicious, and there were few people in the restaurant.
7. Finding Restrooms
There were few toilets along the way, and there were lines. You can enter a café, but before ordering coffee, ask if the establishment has a restroom — not all cafes have one.
8. Dressing Up: Is It Necessary?
During the carnival, only a few tourists opt to wear masks; the majority stroll the streets in regular attire. Masks are readily available, sold on every corner, with the simplest ones costing 10 euros and typically manufactured in China. More authentic masks range in price from 150 to 1000 euros. Crafted from leather or papier-mâché, they are often embellished with gold leaf, gems, and feathers. Neither masks nor costumes are mandatory for tourists attending the festival. However, if you fancy, you can hire a costume from one of the ateliers in Venice for prices ranging from 180 to 800 euros per day.
9. Counting Carnival Costumes
The closer to Piazza San Marco, the more people in carnival costumes. Senors and Senoritas in masks happily pose for photos. In total, I saw 35 costumes, and photographed 27 of them! It was difficult to approach the most interesting “masks”, and I had to wait a couple of minutes. But generally, there are no issues with this. You can also stand next to the masks and take photos together. However, watch your belongings — pickpockets operate in the crowd.
10. Highlights at Piazza San Marco
At the end of my route — at Piazza San Marco and along the promenade — I strolled for 2 hours: taking photos, admiring the cathedrals, and simply enjoying the atmosphere. Here, guests from all over the world gather, but mostly Italians, as well as French and English. Prices in restaurants on the square and nearby are high, and for a 30-minute gondola ride, they ask for 90 euros for 4 people.
11. Returning to the Train Station
In the evenings, there are many free events and discos at Piazza San Marco. But I decided to enjoy the evening Venice next time and hopped on a vaporetto — a river tram with a glassed-in salon and several room on the open deck. I looked at the Grand Canal from the water and reached the train station in 20 minutes. There were several stops along the way, and the tram got so crowded that not everyone could board. A single vaporetto ticket costs 9.5 euros, a day pass — 25 euros. Tickets can be purchased at ticket offices and machines at the docks, as well as in newspaper and tobacco kiosks.
12. Supermarket Near the Train Station
200 meters from the train station (if you stand facing the building, then to the right), there is a DeSpar supermarket, where there is a good selection of products, and I bought food for the evening. Dusk starts around six o’clock at this time of year. In the evening, there are far fewer people, and the city becomes empty and open for leisurely walks.
Wishing you a wonderful carnival!
