Here I am, standing on the deck of a ferry as it cuts through the waves of the Baltic Sea. The journey to the Åland Islands was incredible, and I’ll remember this adventure for many years. UPD: I returned to the islands in the summer of 2024.
What you need to know about Åland
- Åland is an autonomous region within Finland.
- The archipelago comprises around 6,760 islands.
- Population: 30,000.
- The primary language is Swedish.
In my review, I’ll share my impressions, talk about the best places to visit, cover prices and transport, and offer some travel tips.
Where are the Åland Islands?
The Åland Islands are situated in the Baltic Sea’s Gulf of Bothnia, between Sweden and Finland. In Swedish, they are called Åland, and in Finnish, Ahvenanmaa. Both names are widely used.
What to do in the Åland Islands?
Strolling, swimming, biking, museum-hopping – the key is to live and love every moment.
The Åland Islands are a paradise for nature lovers.
In the Åland archipelago, there are 6,757 islands, 60 of which are inhabited. It’s considered the largest cluster of islands on Earth. Therefore, it’s interesting to visit not only the main and largest island, where large ferries and airplanes arrive, but also the smaller islets.
The most intriguing aspect of Åland is immersing oneself in the atmosphere of local island life, where hundreds of people live permanently – studying, working, fishing, growing flowers and apples, and enjoying saunas. Experiencing life as a local is fantastic, whether you’re from a big city or a small one. After all, you can’t just dash to the store at half-past midnight for forgotten matches, salt, or coffee on the island.
Nature lovers will find paradise here. Beautiful rocky landscapes, hundreds of bird species that either reside permanently or stop by during seasonal migration, and rich northern vegetation all attract tourists.
And of course, there are numerous festivals and celebrations here, such as the Saltvik Viking Market and the traditional Midsummer Eve’s celebrations.
Getting around between the main inhabited islands is convenient, and the bus and ferry rides themselves are an interesting part of the trip.
When’s the best time to visit?
The photo was taken in the rose-pink light of dawn in early August.
The most visited months are June and July, characterized by long days, warm nights, and vibrant landscapes filled with blooming plants. Many tourists specifically aim for the Midsummer, occurring between June 20th and 26th (verify dates annually). This ancient and unique celebration features outdoor dancing, wreath weaving, beer, and strawberries with cream.
Locals highly recommend May for trips, as it’s the prime time for birdwatchers. However, swimming remains chilly, and nights can be cool.
I visited in August, relishing warm weather and daily swims. Having grown up around the Baltic Sea, water temperatures of 16-18 degrees Celsius are normal for me. August on the islands is breathtaking, adorned with shades of pink and lilac from blooming heather.
During my trip, there were two days of severe storms, with an orange level of danger indicating a ban on small boats in the sea. Fortunately, this didn’t affect the ferries between the islands, which continued to operate as usual. At night, the wind felt like it could blow the roof off. However, such weather is common where I live.
From mid-September, trees don their yellow and red autumn attire, reaching peak colors from late September to early October. But by then, rains become frequent, days shorten, and the air turns cooler.
What to bring to Åland?
- Umbrella or rain poncho.
- Comfortable footwear – sandals, sneakers.
- Swimsuit for swimming in the sea or waterpark.
- Hat for the sauna (but you can wrap your head in a towel).
- Medications because there are no pharmacies on small islands.
- Special food items, if necessary.
- Insect repellent for mosquitoes and ticks.
- Some cash to buy tickets to museums or souvenirs.
What about prices in Åland?
A serving of creamy salmon soup goes for 15 euros.
Expensive logistics reflects in prices.
The islands are islands, and bringing food and goods here is not easy, so prices are significantly higher than, for example, on mainland Finland, and I suspect they are higher than in your country.
For example, some prices in summer 2023:
Supermarkets:
- 300g of edam or emmental cheese costs 4.29 euros
- sweet bun – 1.50 euros
- 1kg of basmati rice – 4 euros
- 500g of grapes – 2.90 euros
- 1kg of kiwi – 6.50 euros
- 1.5 liters of mineral water – 2 euros
Restaurants:
A main course in a regular restaurant in Mariehamn costs 21-30 euros, on small islands – 15-20 euros. For example, on Kökar, a creamy salmon soup with bread cost me 15 euros, a serving of famous Åland pancakes with cream and jam – 6-7 euros.
Transport:
Ferries between inhabited Åland islands are free for both locals and tourists (you need to pay for cars and other transport). Buses on the main Åland island are also inexpensive. For example, from Mariehamn to Kastelholm Castle (20 km, 30 minutes) – 2 euros.
Museums:
Tickets to museums cost from 4 to 12 euros.
A 4-hour guided tour (by boat and on foot) – 45 euros.
Post:
A stamp for a postcard abroad within Europe costs 2.50 euros.
A postcard – 1.20 euros.
Toilets:
I didn’t come across paid toilets.
Is Åland safe?
Typical house to shelter from bad weather while waiting for your ferry.
You’ll need to walk along the main road, but there are very few cars around here.
I travelled around the Åland Islands alone and always felt completely safe. Are there any safety measures specific to Åland? Yes, a few.
Follow safety precautions while hiking, especially if you’re hiking alone. Trails are usually well-marked, the forests are small, and it’s hard to get lost, but there are adders, which can be dangerous if you’re allergic. There are also many ticks on the islands.
If you’re heading to another island for a few hours, don’t miss the last ferry back to your accommodation. The islands are small, and you’re unlikely to find accommodation even for money. You can take shelter from the weather in the waiting room at the pier (usually a small and cold house with a couple of benches). Not all islands have restaurants and cafes.
Be cautious when swimming outside of designated beaches, as there may be many large and small stones on the bottom. In summer, you may sometimes see small jellyfish, but they don’t cause harm.
On small islands, there’s often no pedestrian path along the road, and you may have to walk on the road. The drivers seemed very polite to me, but you still need to be careful.
Do people speak English in Åland?
The local language in Åland is a Swedish dialect, spoken by 95% of the population. Nevertheless, English is understood to some extent by everyone, and many, especially those working in tourism, speak it fluently.
However, some things – like menus in bistros, explanations in small museums, and ferry schedules – may only be in Swedish. Google Translate doesn’t always do a good job of translating, but the locals will surely help you.
There may be difficulties with the names of islands and places – locals may simply not understand how you pronounce them. For example, in the name Kökar, the first letter is not “K” at all, but closer to “Ch”. Therefore, make sure the driver or passerby understands you correctly if you’re asking for directions or how to get somewhere.
How to get to Åland?
The ferry arrives in Mariehamn at night.
By plane:
By plane with Finnair or Amapola Flyg from Helsinki (Vantaa), Turku, or Stockholm. The only airport is in Mariehamn, located 3 km from the city.
By ferry:
1) From Turku (Finland):
Take the free local ferry from the Turku region in Finland. Consider the South Line (Södra linjen) Galtby-Långnäs, and if you’re driving, there’s also the North Line (Norra linjen) Osnäs-Åva and Torsholma-Hummelvik.
Passage for passengers (both locals and tourists) is free. You need to reserve and pay for vehicle transport in advance, with discounts available for pre-booking. The ferry has open and closed decks with a restaurant (coffee costs 2 euros, a large sandwich 6 euros), and toilets. You can leave your suitcase on racks at the ferry entrance to avoid carrying it up the stairs.
2) From Turku on large paid ferries:
– Viking Line: The ferry departs directly from Turku, near Linnansatama, close to the castle.
– Tallink: Departure from Turku, near the castle, but arrives in Långnäs (20 km from Mariehamn).
These routes are worth considering if you’re travelling around Finland and want to visit Turku, which is a very interesting city. I travelled from Tallinn, and for me, the option with the paid ferry described below turned out to be more advantageous.
3) Ferries from Tallinn, Stockholm, and Helsinki:
The capital of the islands, Mariehamn, lies on the route from Stockholm to Tallinn and Helsinki. Check the ferry company websites for tickets: Tallink and Viking Line.
One downside is that ferries arrive in Åland at night or early in the morning. For example, I arrived on a Tallink ferry at 4:50. This aspect deterred me for a long time, but the journey turned out to be quite tolerable, and witnessing the sunrise in Mariehamn left an indelible impression.
I departed from the terminal in Tallinn. I recommend arriving at least 45 minutes before departure. For example, if your ferry departs at 18:00, it’s better to be in the terminal building at 17:15 or earlier. First, you need to check-in at the self-service kiosks. The boarding pass provided by the machine will have the cabin number. The first digit indicates which deck your cabin is on. You can start moving along the long corridor to the ferry and settle into your cabin right away.
The ferry arrives in Mariehamn at night. Is there a terminal and luggage storage?
The terminal in Mariehamn, where the ferries dock, is quite compact. It offers a coffee vending machine, plenty of seating, automatic luggage storage, and restrooms.
In 2024, the terminal’s opening hours are as follows:
Monday to Friday: 03:30–16:15* and 22:00**–01:00
Saturday to Sunday: 03:30–15:00 and 22:00**–01:00
*Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday: 15:30
**Until 21:30 before 11th August.
The terminal remains open during all ferry arrivals and departures.
When I arrived, there were many available lockers in the luggage storage area. The lockers come in two sizes: small (€6 per day) for medium-sized luggage, and large (€8). However, paying and getting a receipt was a bit tricky—either the system was glitching, or we were just too sleep-deprived. An elderly Finnish couple couldn’t figure it out and ended up taking a stroll with their suitcase. Luckily, I managed to get it right on my second attempt. Note that payment is card-only.
Another option is the Tourist Information Centre at Torggatan 6, Mariehamn, which operates from 9:00 to 17:00. Best of all, they’ll store your luggage for free—it’s not a locker system; they simply hold your bags in their office.
How is public transportation in the Åland Islands?
Buses are parked at the terminal stop in Mariehamn.
The main island boasts good transportation connections, featuring comfortable buses with relatively few passengers. Tickets are sold by the driver, payable in cash or by card. For instance, a ticket from Mariehamn to Kastelholm costs 2 euros (covering 20 km in approximately 40 minutes).
When nearing your intended stop, simply press the Stop button on the overhead panel. In my experience, I took the bus five times, and each time, there were only a few passengers. If you arrive via the local ferry (often linked to a bus), it’s advisable not to linger on the ship, as the bus departs promptly.
Åland Cuisine: what to try?
Åland pancakes are completely different from regular, round pancakes!
Restaurants offer a variety of fish and meat dishes, including lamb, while vegetarian options are limited. Here are some dishes worth trying:
1) Thick square Åland pancakes can be found in many cafes, priced at 6-7 euros per serving. They are quite different from traditional pancakes, made from semolina or rice porridge and baked in the oven. Served with prune or apple jam and whipped cream.
2) Åländsk fisksoppa, made from perch or salmon with potatoes, carrots, and cream, costs 15-18 euros per serving. It’s available in many restaurants and bistros, and I highly recommend trying it.
3) Åländskt svartbröd (Åland black bread) is exceptionally dark, made from rye flour and typically enjoyed with butter and fresh or aged cheese. You can find black bread in any supermarket and in small bakeries. Hemvete is another local bread with a softer taste.
4) Apples grown on the islands are used to make cider. On Kökar Island, you can visit the Peders Aplagård farm, which produces several types of cider. Their products are available in supermarkets and some cafes.
5) ÅCA is a dairy cooperative on Åland that produces cheeses, yogurts, ice cream, and more. Additionally, several small producers make cheese. You can find their products in supermarkets and restaurants.
How much time do you need in Åland?
Even the postboxes are crafted with care.
I spent 1.5 weeks in Åland and enjoyed every day – walking, swimming, birdwatching, visiting museums and landmarks, and interacting with the locals. I didn’t even have enough time to enjoy the sauna! If I were to visit Åland again, I would like to spend no less than a week here.
However, if you are coming from far away, you are probably considering a short visit to the islands. Yes, I believe that you shouldn’t miss even the slightest opportunity to visit Åland. The islands are a special world, and you will greatly enrich your itinerary.
If you only have 2-3 days, consider the following options: Mariehamn+Kastelholm, Mariehamn+Kökar, or just one small island, for example, Kökar. It is on small islands like Kökar where you can experience true island life almost without tourist embellishments. And this is the case where traveling by bus or ferry is not wasted time but an interesting part of the trip.
Mobile communication and internet access
Mobile communication and internet access are excellent almost everywhere, both in Mariehamn and on the smaller islands. The signal reception for phones was good overall. The only issue I encountered was during a few hours on the ferry from Tallinn to Mariehamn when my phone lost signal in the cabin at night. I’m not sure what caused this.
Where to stay in Mariehamn
During the summer season, it’s advisable to book accommodations in advance to secure a good room at a reasonable price. Hotel prices here are quite high. The city is compact, with most hotels located within a radius of 1.5 km from the ferry terminal. There are options for those staying for 1-2 nights and for those who want to relax by the sea for a longer period.
Budget options
Gästhem Neptun
I stayed at this guesthouse and was pleasantly surprised by the friendly and welcoming staff. The guesthouse is small but clean and comfortable, located on a quiet street. Rooms only have a sink, while several showers and toilets are available per floor. Breakfast is served on weekdays from 7 am. The courtyard with tables is a nice place to enjoy coffee in the early morning sun. Coffee and tea can be prepared in the kitchen at any time, which was a big plus for me. There’s also a budget-friendly pizzeria in the basement. It’s 700 m to the ferry terminal.
Esplanad Suites
A good option, but booking in advance is recommended as it’s often fully booked during the summer. Several apartments with flat-screen TVs, private bathrooms, and equipped kitchens are offered here. It’s 1.2 km to the ferry terminal.
Strandnäs Hotell
This hotel is further from the city center, located in a quiet area. The hotel also has a separate kitchen and dining room if you want to cook your own food. Bicycle rental is available, which is very convenient for exploring the surroundings. It’s about 2 km to the city center and 3.5 km to the ferry terminal.
Mid-range options
Park Alandia Hotel
It’s conveniently located – 100 m to the city center, 400m to the beach and waterfront. The rooms are spacious and equipped with all amenities. You can spend the morning in the spa center. However, the breakfast room is small and crowded. The buffet is of good quality, but it can be difficult to reach with several people there. The pub and restaurant are open all day. Free bicycles are available for a few hours. It’s 1.3 km to the ferry terminal.
Stava Mosters
A great place for both business trips and family vacations. The apartments feature 2 bedrooms, a flat-screen TV with satellite channels, a dining area, kitchen, and bathroom. Beautiful views from the windows. It’s 300 m to the ferry terminal.
Torggatan 54
Several spacious, modern rooms with a terrace. Well-equipped kitchen with a microwave, toaster, fridge, and kettle. Bathroom with a jacuzzi. It’s 300 m to the ferry terminal.
Cottage with own beach, sea terrace & pavilion
A cottage with sea views, a private beach, terrace, and pavilion. The place is beautiful and quiet, but the trail to the cottage is rocky. Worth staying if you’re visiting for a few days. It’s 2.5 km to the ferry terminal.
What to see in Mariehamn
Mariehamn is the main city of the Åland Islands, where almost 40 percent of the residents live. It has several museums, parks, interesting spots, and restaurants.
Badhusparken and Mariehamn vaateplats
The park boasts a popular disc golf course.
Experiencing a sunrise in a new place is unforgettable.
You can reach the top in just a couple of minutes, making it accessible to all visitors.
I visited this park early in the morning, arriving on the ferry from Tallinn, and witnessed the most beautiful sunrise – a moment I’ll cherish for a lifetime. It’s a leisurely 15-minute walk from the terminal along the promenade. Then, delve into the park and head up (the ascent along the trails or stairs will take just a couple of minutes).
The observation platform consists of rocks, pine trees, and heather, offering a breathtaking view. In my opinion, this is the most beautiful natural spot in Mariehamn. The park is relatively small, and the amount of time you spend here is up to you. I spent about an hour here, and before leaving the islands, I stopped by again for one last glimpse of its beauty.
Badhusparken is located next to the sailing ship Pommern.
The Åland Maritime Museum and the sailing ship Pommern
The barque Pommern, constructed in Glasgow in 1903.
On the barque, you can see how the captain, first mate, and sailors lived.
A collection of maritime artifacts spanning the shipping era, showcased across two floors.
If you only have time to visit one museum, make it this one. The Åland Maritime Museum is renowned as one of the world’s finest museums dedicated to merchant sailing ships. It features a wide array of fascinating exhibits, including the Pommern, a four-masted merchant barque and windjammer that was actively involved in the grain trade route between Australia and England until the start of World War II.
With one ticket, you can access both the museum and the sailing ship. An audio guide (included in the ticket price) will take you through the captain’s quarters, the galley, and the workshops.
Additionally, there is a complimentary storage facility where you can leave your luggage, and a souvenir shop available.
Explanad and St Görans kyrka
Vi är Havets Folk (We are the sea people) — the sculpture on the esplanade.
The church was built 100 years ago.
Esplanade is an alley with benches that runs across the entire city from west to east. Along its length stand many historic wooden mansions, and in the middle is St. George Church (S:t Görans kyrka), which is particularly beautiful in the rays of the sun.
Åland Museum (Ålands kulturhistoriska museum)
Here’s how the fashionistas used to stroll around the islands in the past.
Oh, what beauty!
The museum houses many items of old household.
The museum is small and consists of two parts: historical and art. The historical section features a collection of artifacts depicting the history of Åland from ancient times to the present day. I visited it specifically for the collection of traditional clothing, which, while not extensive, is quite interesting.
The Maritime Quarter (Sjökvarteret)
Boathouses are scattered all over Åland, but here they’re clustered together!
The Maritime Quarter is a pleasant (and free!) spot for a stroll, especially in good weather. Here, you’ll see historic wooden boatsheds as they were in the late 19th century. If you’re lucky, you might even observe boat construction in progress.
There’s also a sailors’ chapel, which looks great in photos, and the Pub Niska restaurant. I really enjoyed this place, and while it’s small, there’s ongoing work, and of course, it has its charm.
Bagarstugan Cafe & Wine
I was among the first visitors. There was already a queue behind me.
This cafe feels like a genuine museum!
A cozy homely café with interesting vintage interiors and antique cups — almost like a small museum! The menu features fresh pastries, cakes, and Åland pancakes. There are several tables in the courtyard, so you can enjoy your food outdoors. During the day, there are often queues at the cash register. Closed on Mondays.
Black Cat Cafe (Svarta Katten)
The cafe is located in this charming old wooden house.
The desserts are delicious, but I would have preferred the coffee to be much stronger.
Another cozy café in a historic wooden house. You can sit inside or in the garden. A wide selection of desserts, pastries, and gluten-free dishes are available. If I had to choose between the two cafes, I preferred the interior of Bagarstugan and the desserts at Svarta Katten.
Stadshusbacken park
The town was named after the Russian Empress Maria Alexandrovna (1824–1880).
A tiny cozy park in the city center in front of the town hall. The park features a monument to the Russian Empress Maria Alexandrovna and the Finnish priest and reformer of the Åland Islands, Frans Peter von Knorring.
Mariehamn City Library
At Mariehamn City Library, I spent half an hour waiting for my island bus.
A cozy library with many quiet corners. Located opposite the Bussplan terminal, where buses depart throughout the island, it’s a perfect spot to wait for your bus, browse books, and magazines. Free Wi-Fi and restroom facilities are available.
Badhuset Mariebad (Water park)
Badhuset may not be the grandest, but its charm is unforgettable.
A swimming pool with jacuzzis, saunas, and a small indoor winding slide. From the pool, you can access the outdoor swimming area and take a dip in the sea. I’ve visited quite a few water parks, and this one isn’t the fanciest, but it left me with a very pleasant impression.
Where to visit from Mariehamn
From Mariehamn, you can travel by bus or car to different parts of the island or by ferry to other separate islands: Kökar, Källskär, Sottunga, etc.
Kastelholm, 23 km from Mariehamn
Kastelholm is situated by the river in a beautiful location.
The castle reached its peak in the 15th and 16th centuries.
I keep seeing red-colored houses and windmills again and again.
It’s always fascinating to explore life in the past.
Kastelholm boasts Kastelholm Castle and the Open-Air Museum, making it a captivating destination, especially in favorable weather conditions. I spent five hours exploring the area and left thoroughly satisfied. However, if you’re short on time, a two-hour tour should suffice, given the convenient proximity of the castle and open-air museum.
To reach Kastelholm, I took bus 4 from Mariehamn. The ticket cost 2 euros, and the bus was nearly empty. The Kastelholm Castle stop is adjacent to the castle itself. While the castle’s exhibition is small, it provides valuable insights. If you intend to visit the royal prison (which is quite small), you can purchase a combined ticket at the ticket office. Alternatively, if time is limited, you can skip the museum and focus on admiring the castle’s exterior from various angles.
Just 100 meters from the castle lies the Jan Karlsgården Open-Air Museum, offering a glimpse into the life of Åland peasants. With a dozen old houses, mills, barns, and farmyards—some of which are open for exploration—it’s a charming and delightful place to visit. Admission is free.
At the information center, you can find postcards and stamps, while at the kassa, you can obtain a stampel featuring the castle.
Close to the castle, you’ll find the Kastelholms Gästhem guesthouse, which boasts positive reviews. The guesthouse offers rooms with amenities and is open from May to October.
On my return journey, the bus was delayed by 15 minutes, causing some anxiety, although it wasn’t the last bus of the day.
The Island of Kökar, 60 km from Mariehamn
Ferries run several times a day during the summer.
The main hotel on the island, which features a restaurant, bicycle rental, and restroom.
While exploring the island, I came across several sunflower fields.
I spent over a week on this island—swimming, visiting neighboring islands, going to the only shop and ceramic workshop on the island, meeting the locals, and admiring the heather. The island has a year-round population of 220 people, doubling in the summer. The journey itself is quite an adventure. It is reachable by ferry from Långnäs on Åland (or from Galtby with access to mainland Finland). To get to Långnäs from Mariehamn, I took a regular bus from the final stop at Bussplan, located opposite the city library. The bus arrives at the ferry just 5-10 minutes before departure—plenty of time. The ferry is free for both residents and tourists.
The ferry makes several intermediate stops at islands. It’s interesting to see locals getting off the ferry with their stuff and transferring to their boats to continue home.
There are several hotels and guesthouses at different ends of the island, some with bistros and restaurants.
The best place to stay and relax is at Brudhäll Hotel & Restaurant. The rooms have private bathrooms, and some have mini-kitchens. There are rooms with private saunas. The breathtaking views from the windows overlook cliffs and the sea. The staff is wonderful and very responsive! The restaurant offers beautiful views of the sea, generous portions, and delicious food. It’s 4 km from the pier where the ferry arrives.
For a budget option with good ratings, there’s Karlby Gästhem. The rooms here are small and without amenities. Bicycle rental is also available. The location is very convenient—near the island’s only supermarket.
Village of Karlby
This is the center of the village of Karlby, the main settlement on the island.
Even the rain from the windows seems incredibly beautiful.
In the Kökar supermarket, prices are high. But there’s no other option.
The hub of island life is the village of Karlby. Here, you’ll find several dozen wooden red houses, a shop, post office, ceramic shop, and a bank branch. At the Kökar Skärgårdsbutik supermarket, they sell a dozen varieties of cheese, sausages, several types of rice and quinoa, tomatoes, and kiwi.
Nearby is the delightful Karlby café, offering the island’s best creamy fish soup. Hot dishes cost 15 euros, while Åland pancakes are 6 euros. There’s also a nearby post office with a good selection of postcards and stamps. Just 300 meters away is the beautiful Brudhäll Hotel & Restaurant, featuring a restaurant with a lovely seaside terrace.
Kökar Church
This spot is unforgettable!
A typical sailboat in a Scandinavian church, designed to appeal to sailors.
The church dedicated to St. Anne was built in 1784. It is one of the most beautiful churches in the Åland Archipelago. The location on the shore is simply stunning: from the hill, you can enjoy views of the numerous small islands stretching for kilometers. It’s especially beautiful in the rays of the sunset. Inside the church, if it’s open, take note of the model ship hanging from the ceiling—it’s a typical feature in Scandinavia.
As you approach the church along the road and cross the bridge to Hamno Island, don’t miss the left turn onto the Gamla kyrkvägen trail. It’s a beautiful route about 1 km long, mostly consisting of large stones. The trail isn’t difficult, and the markings are clear. Following this path will lead you directly to the church. However, if you’re in a hurry, continue straight on the road.
Kökar Local Heritage Museum
Such a traditional costume is hard to find elsewhere.
I love visiting local museums like this one!
Kökar Museum showcases the life of Kökar residents from the 19th century up to the 1940s. The museum building, constructed in 1913, was formerly an old school. Even the old school toilet has been preserved here!
Please have cash ready to purchase tickets as the museum does not accept credit cards. While the museum doesn’t have a website, it does have a Facebook page. Be sure to check the opening hours, especially if you plan to walk there. The route is not the most scenic, so it would be disappointing to arrive at closed doors. I spent about an hour exploring the museum.
Bronze Age Site
I mostly walked around the island in sandals, just like the locals do.
There is also a Bronze Age site dating back to 1150–1050 BC on Kökar. The site itself may not reveal much to the uninitiated, but the trail is beautiful, allowing you to imagine how ancient brave hunters lived here three thousand years ago. Perhaps, like me, they stood in awe, admiring the blooming heather, which painted the entire landscape purple. Most likely, they were occupied with more mundane matters—like finding food and keeping warm.
Be cautious and try to tread more heavily—there are adders on the island that can sense vibrations and will quickly disappear from sight. But don’t worry: the trail mostly runs along stones, not grass, so the chances of stepping on a snake are slim.
Trips from Kökar
One of the great things about the island is its convenient access to several other islands. Let me tell you about two of them.
Källskär Island
You never expect to see a statue on a remote island!
The landscapes look like they’re from Mars!
The baron built a modest yet comfortable summer house.
Here, the baron spent many wonderful days.
The excursion to the tiny island of Källskär left me with fantastic impressions. Highly recommended! Firstly, the nature itself. If the island only had rocks and trees, it would be worth visiting for that alone. I couldn’t believe how nature had intricately shaped the landscape, not by some great designer but by its own marvels.
Secondly, the house and garden created by the Swedish Baron Göran Åkerhielms (1920–1992) from Stockholm. He built a summer house on the island and lived here for 25 years, from early spring to late autumn. He wasn’t just a recluse working hard; he also hosted guests—businessmen, writers, and artists. When the years caught up with him, he handed over his part of the island and the built houses to the Åland Islands region— such a kind, Swedish thing to do! Even now, rhododendrons, roses, and strawberries bloom in the garden, despite the constant winds, thanks to the protection provided by the stone walls.
Thirdly, my imagination was struck by the gazebo on the hill, known as the Moomintroll’s House. It was the favorite spot of the author Tove Jansson, who visited here, and the spire on the roof inspired her to draw a similar house for the Moomin Troll. You can’t go inside, but you can peek through the windows.
Regular ferries do not go to this island. You can purchase the excursion at Brudhäll Hotel & Restaurant. To do this, you need to write to the hotel in advance and reserve spots. It costs 45 euros, lasts about 4 hours, including the journey. Trips are canceled in stormy weather, but this happens infrequently. The guide chooses between Swedish or English depending on how many people understand each language. In my group, it was in English.
Sottunga Island
The first thing you see on the island is the red wooden houses.
The chapel stands right in the forest.
Innovations haven’t bypassed the island. It’s a pity that the wind turbine makes quite a lot of noise.
August is a wonderful time in the Åland Islands.
About 100 people live on this island. The sights include a charming wooden church near the habor and a nature trail. There’s a restaurant, toilet, and information stand in the harbor. It’s worth a visit if you have plenty of time. You can get there on the free Southern Line ferries Långnäs-Kökar.
I planned to visit two more tiny islands—there’s just nature without landmarks—but there was a strong storm and rain in the first few days, so my plans changed. So, if you’re pressed for time, prioritize visiting Källskär.
