I visited Naissaar in late May. It was a magical time – birds were singing, primroses were blooming, and lilies of the valley were just beginning to wake up.
The weather was perfect – a storm bypassed the island. This is important because, in bad weather, the lighthouse is closed, and that was the main attraction I wanted to see.
This was the 10th island in the Baltic Sea that I visited. Naissaar translates from Estonian as ‘women’s island’.
In brief:
- Area: 18 sq. km — 16 times larger than Old Town Tallinn.
- Population: 3 residents and some seasonal inhabitants.
- Highlights: Lighthouse, sandy beaches, and military ruins.
Naissaar is located 8 km from Tallinn towards Helsinki and is almost entirely covered by dense pine and spruce forests. The timber harvested here was once highly valued – it was used to construct beams in many medieval houses in Tallinn.
The island is covered with a beautiful, dense forest.
The military route is very popular.
The local population is tiny, but 120 years ago, the island was bustling with life: 400 people lived there, mainly Estonian Swedes, and there were two schools. From 1944 to 1994, the island housed a Soviet military base, and all inhabitants either fled or were deported, with no outsiders allowed.
Today, Naissaar is a protected nature reserve and a favourite getaway for young people from Tallinn. The military ruins are overgrown with grass and do not spoil the overall impression. In spring, it’s an excellent place for birdwatching: 160 species of birds can be seen on and around the island.
How to get to Naissaar Island
I reached the island on a Sunlines ferry from central Tallinn.
I took the Elina ferry by Monica from the island to Pirita in Tallinn. When there are lots of tourists, they send a larger ferry.
Two companies operate ferries from Tallinn to Naissaar:
- Sunlines departs from Kalasadam, in the city centre, about 2 km from the Old Town.
- Monica ferries depart from the Pirita district, which is easily accessible by city bus from central Tallinn.
The difference is not just in the departure point but also in the time spent on the island. Sunlines offers 6 hours, while Monica offers 9.5 hours. So if your goal is to visit the lighthouse, it’s better to choose the longer cruise. Alternatively, you can mix and match: go to the island with Sunlines and return with Monica.
Both companies operate from May to September. There are no tourist services to the island at other times.
The ferry ride from Tallinn to Naissaar takes about an hour (15 km). When planning your return, make sure to allow extra time to avoid being stranded overnight. Unexpected things can happen – for example, I had to wait for a herd of wild boars to cross the main road.
Where to stay on Naissaar Island
The island has camping areas where you can pitch a tent, as well as accommodations at the Naissaar Turismi- ja Puhkekeskus (Tourism and Recreation Centre) near the pier. However, a day trip is also feasible. I saw everything I wanted to in 6 hours, but it did require continuous movement.
Things to do on Naissaar Island
1. Sunbathing and swimming
In May, the water is still cold, so I didn’t dare to swim.
This is the easiest option – beautiful beaches are near the ferry landing. For example, a few meters from the pier, to the right, is a campsite with tables, toilets, and other amenities. The most beautiful beaches are at Hülkari (Seal Reef) – a 1.5 km walk to the left from the pier along the blue-marked trail.
Be careful when swimming and avoid diving in unfamiliar places – there are rocks underwater. The swimming season in Estonia usually lasts from June to the end of August.
However, don’t plan to walk quickly around the island’s shore – walking on sand is tough and slow, and there isn’t always a grassy path near the water.
2. Hiking trails
The island has plenty of signposts, very convenient.
Each of the three trails is marked with its own colour: red, blue, or green.
Naissaar has three marked hiking trails, indicated by different colours. You’ll see colour-coded markers on the trees and maps along the routes.
Red and White Military Trail (10 km): This trail features the ruins of an officers’ casino, missile fuel storage, and artillery batteries. Most military sites are in the north. The trail is 10 km long, with an additional distance from and to the ferry.
Green Middle Trail (11 km): Marked in green, this trail showcases natural attractions like a dune covered with pines and lichens. The trail starts at the pier.
Blue Southern Trail (13 km): This trail features both military and natural sites, such as Cape Hülkari with its beaches, a protected typical spruce forest (Laanekuusik), and a mine storage. The trail starts and ends at the pier.
3. Exploring the lighthouse
The lighthouse was the main goal of my route.
You can see almost the entire island from the top.
Naissaar’s lighthouse is one of the most photogenic in Estonia, standing 45 meters tall. However, it’s not an ancient structure – it’s only 60 years old. The first lighthouse on this site was built in 1788 but didn’t survive.
The lighthouse keeper and his family live nearby and have a large garden. The lighthouse’s hours aren’t posted, but it’s closed during storms. If you don’t see the keeper, knock on the nearby house. The entrance fee is €5. Climb 220 spiral steps for stunning views of the island and, on clear days, Helsinki’s silhouette.
The lighthouse is 7 km from the ferry. The shortest route is along the main road, which runs along the east coast.
However, walking the entire road isn’t ideal. Instead, take part of the journey on the small train that runs on a narrow-gauge railway between the pier and the village of Männiku in the island’s center. This gives you more time to explore other attractions.
4. Picking blueberries and mushrooms
Somewhere around here is where I spotted the wild boars.
When I visited, the blueberries weren’t ripe yet—they ripen at the end of July.
A snake was basking in the sun but slithered into the grass when it heard my steps.
The island is covered with an enchanting pine forest, reaching right to the water. It feels like a fairy tale – ancient and untouched by humans. There are a few small bogs, but they aren’t very scenic.
In July, blueberries ripen, and there are plenty of them. Mushroom hunters come for boletes and aspen mushrooms, but the island is home to 460 species of fungi!
Be cautious of vipers on the island. Vipers in Estonia are not highly venomous, though their bite is still unpleasant. It’s best to wear sturdy boots or rubber shoes. The old trick of tapping the ground with a stick to scare snakes away also works.
5. Taking a guided tour
You can explore the whole island on this little train – no walking required!
An excellent option for those who prefer guided experiences. Tours cover the entire island on a sturdy military truck. You can book a tour when buying ferry tickets. Tours cover various topics – island history, nature, and people, with audio guides available. The cost is from €15 and lasts 3.5 hours.
Planning your visit
The tiny harbour has a cafe and bike rentals.
There are several toilets on the island.
When planning a trip to Naissaar, think about what to wear. Any weather-appropriate footwear will be used for beach activities. If you plan to walk in the forest, bring boots or rubber shoes as there are vipers – I even saw one on the trail.
The island has a café, bike rentals, toilets, and garbage bins. There are no shops or postal services, but the cell coverage is good, except in some northern areas where the signal either disappears or switches to Finnish operators.
