December isn’t quiet anymore. The lights are on, the market is open, and the city shifts into full winter mode. Some years bring snow, others stay damp and grey, but either way, the streets are busier and prices start to climb.
Here’s what December in Tallinn is really like — from weather and daylight to markets, saunas, and New Year’s Eve.
Planning a trip? Don’t miss my full → Tallinn Travel Guide — packed with local tips, hidden spots, and seasonal advice.
What the weather’s like — and how it actually feels outside
December in Tallinn usually hovers close to 0 °C. Most days sit between −3 and +2 °C, but swings happen. A mild year can bring damp +4 °C drizzle, while a cold snap can plunge to −15 °C — rarely −20 °C for a few days.
Snow is possible, but not guaranteed. Some Decembers are postcard white, others stay grey and wet until January. Near the sea, the wind makes it feel colder than it looks on paper. Streets stay cleared, trams and buses keep running, and life doesn’t stop — but you’ll feel the chill on every corner.
One local detail: In the Old Town, you might see a wooden stick set at an angle against the wall — sometimes with a red flag on top. It means icicles above — and you should definitely not stand there.
Light and Darkness: Candles, Windows, and Reflectors
Just lights on dark evenings — simple, but it works.
By mid-December, Tallinn gets less than six hours of daylight. Sunrise is close to 09:00, sunset around 15:20. Even at noon, the sun stays low, casting more of a side-glow than full daylight.
But the city doesn’t feel gloomy. Streets are strung with warm lights, cafés glow from inside, and in almost every window you’ll spot a triangular candelabra with seven electric candles. That very model — a triangle of seven lights — came from Sweden in the 1930s and was new to Estonia at the time. It quickly caught on as a safer, brighter alternative to real candles, and now it’s everywhere.
Today most are plastic, cost around €10 in supermarkets, and glow in homes, stairwells, and even offices all through December. You can even turn it into a game: count how many you spot in a single day — it’ll be dozens, if not hundreds.
Local law: once it’s dark, pedestrians are required by law to wear a reflector — a small plastic tag clipped to your coat or bag. You’ll find them in supermarkets or souvenir shops for €1–2, and they really do make you visible to drivers. Most locals wear them without a second thought.
What to Wear: Survival First, Style Second
Locals don’t dress for looks in December — they dress to stay upright on the ice.
You’ll want waterproof boots with grip, a coat with a hood, a warm scarf, gloves, and layers that work both indoors and out. Bring a hat if you like, but don’t rely on it — in Tallinn’s wind, a hood is what really keeps you dry. Thermal underwear helps if you’re outside for long stretches.
Short version: dress smart, not thin. Then you won’t have to think about the cold — which is exactly the point.
Christmas Market: Small, Central, and Atmospheric
Tallinn’s Christmas market runs in 2025 from 21 November to 27 December, right on Town Hall Square. The Christmas tree — one of the oldest traditions in Europe, first documented in 1441 — is lit on the first Sunday of Advent (30 November in 2025). The mayor and a local priest usually do the honours, with music and mugs of glögi in the crowd.
The market itself is compact: a few dozen wooden stalls selling wool socks, felt gnomes, spiced almonds, gingerbread, and candles. Food stands serve sausages, sauerkraut, pastries, and glögi — both with and without alcohol. It’s not about chasing the perfect recipe here — the glögi is hot, spiced, and exactly what you want when your hands are freezing.
In the evenings, you’ll hear choirs, folk groups, or an accordionist playing under the lights. It’s not a big show — just enough to make the square feel alive.
More Christmas Trees: Rotermann and Noblessner
The Christmas tree in Noblessner looks exactly as you’d expect here: designer neatness, zero fairy-tale fluff.
Beyond the Old Town, you’ll find two other trees worth a look.
In Noblessner, a design firm usually handles the decorations — clean, modern, often red and white against the harbour’s colourful buildings. In Rotermann, the tree tends to be minimalist, with soft lighting that fits the industrial-chic vibe. Neither draws crowds, but both are easy to visit and give a modern contrast to the medieval square.
Things to Do in Tallinn in December
Outdoors: Skating, Sledding, Walking
The main ice rink sits right off Town Hall Square on Harju Street. Small, central, lit up at night — and very cold once the sun goes down.
For sledding, locals head to the Song Festival Grounds, Hirve Park, Pirita Sports Centre, or even the Open Air Museum. Snow doesn’t always last, but when it does, the hills fill up fast.
On calmer days, walks in Kadriorg Park, along Pirita’s seaside, or out at Viru Bog are classics. Cold, quiet, and worth the frozen toes.
Indoors: Cafés, Museums, Saunas
December is mostly an indoor month. Cafés fog up with glögi drinkers, museums stay blissfully quiet, and Christmas concerts echo through old churches.
And then there’s the sauna. In Estonia, it’s not a treat — it’s part of life. Many homes have one. Public spas are everywhere. The rhythm: heat, plunge, rest, repeat.
Big central spas like Tallink, Kalev, and Metropol offer large pools, steady crowds, and mid-range prices. Tallinn Viimsi Spa, about 10 km from the Old Town, sits by the sea and works well for a slow winter day — though it’s less convenient for city exploring.
For something smaller and more refined, try Swissôtel, Telegraaf, or the Mövenpick.
Looking for day spas or hotel packages? Check rates here →
Shopping: Socks, Gnomes, and More
December in Tallinn means gnomes everywhere — supermarkets stuffed with them, all at the same price.
Shops in December go heavy on winter souvenirs. You’ll see woollen socks and mittens (€20–40), felt Santas and gnomes (€5–17), candles, wooden toys, and ornaments from rustic to glossy.
It’s not just the Old Town. Supermarkets and malls fill up with seasonal stock — from handmade pieces to factory-made sparkle. Some are tacky, some are lovely, and half the fun is digging through the mix.
For glass Christmas ornaments, check out Kaubamaja and Stockmann — big department stores near the Old Town, with full home sections and lots of choice. You’ll find classic balls, delicate figurines, and modern designs.
Good woollen mittens and gloves are worth a closer look. Skip the stalls on the main square — for real craftsmanship, check small galleries and design shops in the Old Town. You’ll find finer work, often hand-knit or embroidered, and much more unique.
New Year’s Eve: Fireworks Everywhere, but No Official Show
Tallinn no longer puts on an official firework show — mainly for safety and environmental reasons — but locals more than make up for it. At midnight, the suburbs erupt in colour and noise as people set off their own.
In the centre, Freedom Square (Vabaduse väljak) fills with people. There’s usually a stage with live music and a light show at midnight — festive and lively, but not so crowded that you can’t move.
Restaurants book up fast. Olde Hansa — a medieval-style restaurant that’s a favourite with visitors — often sells out two months in advance. Fixed menus are the rule: around €150–220 per person in the top places, €70–120 in mid-range spots, and prepayment is standard.
When the night ends, taxis keep running. Locals use the Bolt app — it works like Uber and is the easiest way to get a ride.
Practical Tips for December Visitors
Not exactly light, but blood sausage with stewed sauerkraut is Estonia’s winter classic.
- Holidays: 24–26 December and 1 January are public holidays. Shops and museums may close early on the 24th and stay closed on the 25th.
- Flights and ferries: Prices climb around Christmas and New Year. Ferries to Helsinki and Stockholm run as usual; cancellations due to storms are possible but extremely rare.
- Postcards: Every December, Estonia issues new Christmas stamps — pretty, collectable, and easy to buy at any post office.
- Food: Seasonal dishes appear everywhere, from markets to restaurants: mulgikapsad (sauerkraut with barley and pork), blood sausages, lingonberry jam, gingerbread, and of course glögi. I’ve written more about Estonian food here.
- Alcohol: Sold only until 22:00 in shops. Bars and restaurants serve later.
Mark Your Spot in December
Is Tallinn worth visiting in December? Yes — if you can handle the cold, short days, and icy streets. It isn’t the easiest month, but it has a mood you won’t find in summer: a market glowing in the square, snowy walks, candles in windows, and the steady hum of the Old Town.
Don’t expect big shows or perfect weather. What makes December special are the small details — a cup of glögi in the square, a sauna after a freezing walk, the sound of music in old churches.
For me, that mix of light and silence is what makes Tallinn in December worth every frozen toe.
