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If you're heading to France and can't decide which city to visit, let me recommend Lyon. It's only two hours by train from Paris, and it's packed with a beautifully preserved Old Town, loads of fun spots to explore, and some seriously amazing éclairs. I'll show you the must-see sights, where to stay, and the best time to go.


I was on my way to the gorgeous French countryside to wander through the mountains, and my route happened to take me through Lyon’s airport. I’d heard so much about this city that I just couldn’t pass up the chance to check it out. So, I decided to stay for a week – and let me tell you, it was absolutely the best decision!

Why visit Lyon?

  • Historic charm: Beautifully preserved Old Town, one of the top UNESCO-listed sites.
  • Cultural highlights:  A wealth of museums and attractions.
  • Gastronomy:  Famous for its traditional cuisine (and yes, incredible pastries!) and vibrant local markets.
  • Location:  Well-connected by both airport and train.

Many tourists dream of seeing Paris, and yes, I once spent a month there – it’s amazing. But France has so many other beautiful cities to offer, and Lyon is definitely in the top 5.

Lyon is also the culinary capital of France. You’ll find dozens of Michelin-starred restaurants here, but even a small, unassuming bistro around the corner might serve up a coq au vin or sausage that will blow your mind. And those éclairs, the Coussin de Lyon, and the melt-in-your-mouth brioches?

Everything you need to know is laid out in this guide. I really hope you choose this city for your trip and love it as much as I did.

What to see in Lyon

Exploring Lyon is a delight, with its main attractions so close together.

A significant part of Lyon, roughly 10%, is recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage site. Add to that around 20 museums, both historic and modern, over a hundred murals, plus scenic viewpoints, parks, and more. Let’s focus on the highlights.

1. Vieux Lyon

The Old Town of Lyon, known as Vieux Lyon, is one of the largest Renaissance districts in Europe. As you weave through its narrow streets, explore secret passageways (traboules), or stop by one of the many cafés and shops, you’re constantly surrounded by history.

Here’s what I wouldn’t miss:

  • Cathédrale Saint-Jean-Baptiste: This stunning 12th-century Gothic cathedral will take your breath away, especially with its astronomical clock that’s a marvel in itself.
  • Traboules: Shortcuts linking streets through one or more buildings. Used by silk merchants in the past, they’re now open to curious explorers. There are around 200 traboules in the Old Town, but not all are open to the public. See the list here.
  • Bouchons: Lyon is known for its bouchons, traditional restaurants where you can enjoy hearty local cuisine like quenelles (a light, oval-shaped dish made from creamed fish or meat), coq au vin (chicken stewed in wine), and Coussin de Lyon (a sweet made of chocolate and marzipan). Don’t leave without trying one!

Wear comfortable shoes – those cobbled streets can be quite the workout for your feet! To avoid the tourist crowds, visit on a weekday morning when it’s a bit quieter. The food in the Old Town is great, but you’ll also find plenty of good spots just outside its borders.

View of Cathédrale Saint-Jean-Baptiste in Lyon from a distance.

Lyon’s Old Town runs for 2 km along the Saône River, with Cathédrale Saint-Jean-Baptiste right in the middle.

The Old Town is full of cafés, restaurants, patisseries, and shops.

2. Boat Tours in Lyon

One of the best things about the boat tour is that you get to see not just the city centre, but also some of the newer areas. You’ll pass by cool, modern buildings like the bright green Euronews building, often referred to as the ‘pencil sharpener’, and the vibrant Orange Cube, known as ‘the cheese’.

I took a trip with Les Bateaux Lyonnais, which departs from 2 Quai des Célestins, right in the city centre. The boats hold 100-150 people. Even in April, I had to wait about 20 minutes for a ticket – though it was a sunny Sunday.

As for seating – don’t worry too much about which side to sit on, as the route loops back. However, be mindful of the weather; the upper deck can get quite hot in the sun or windy on cooler days.

Tours are available in both French and English, but note that there wasn’t a bar on my boat, so I recommend bringing water.

Most trips last about an hour, but if you’re in the mood for something a bit more special, you can opt for a longer tour that includes a meal on board.

Passengers queue for a boat tour along the Saône River in Lyon.

Boats run one after the other, but you’ll still need to wait in line.

Tourists on a boat enjoying the view of Lyon’s hillside, with the Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière and the metallic tower in the background.

All the seats on both the upper and lower decks are taken.

A bold green Euronews building, nicknamed the "pencil sharpener," reflecting in the water near the Confluence district in Lyon.

People call this green Euronews building ‘the pencil sharpener’.

3. Lyon Silk Workshops

Lyon’s silk history is something you absolutely shouldn’t miss, and the best way to experience it is by visiting two charming workshop-museums: Maison des Canuts and Atelier de Soierie. Both are tucked away in the historic Croix-Rousse district, just a short 7-minute walk from each other.

Both workshops offer tours twice a day, and although the guides only speak French, I’d still recommend them to anyone, even if you don’t understand a word. Each tour lasts about an hour. I didn’t need to book in advance – I simply arrived at the scheduled time and purchased my ticket on the spot.

If you’ve got the time, definitely visit both – their schedules are coordinated. But if you can only choose one, I’d go for Maison des Canuts – it gives you a full sense of the silk-making process and what daily life was like for Lyon’s silk workers.

1) Maison des Canuts

At Maison des Canuts, you’ll learn about the ‘canuts’, the silk workers who made this city famous for its luxurious fabrics. The guides don’t just explain the history – they start up the old looms, and you can watch as silk threads are woven right in front of you.

The space itself is small, just around 50 m², and everything has been restored to look exactly as it did in the late 19th century. You can even wander upstairs and see how the workshop owners lived.

A guide explaining the silk weaving process, standing in front of a loom with fabric on display.

The guide explains that at its peak in the 19th century, there were around 30,000 silk looms operating in Lyon.

In the museum, you can view examples of silk craftsmanship.

2) Atelier de Soierie

Just 500 metres away is Atelier de Soierie, another small studio that still produces intricate silk ribbons. Luxury fashion houses like Hermès and Louis Vuitton use these ribbons in their high-end creations.

The workshop has also preserved its original atmosphere from 150 years ago. There’s a little shop where you can pick up some silk souvenirs. The prices are moderate – for example, a small scarf starts at €50.

A guide at the silk museum demonstrating the Jacquard loom system, holding a perforated card used in the weaving process.

In the guide’s hands is a perforated card, which controls the movements of the Jacquard loom.

When the loom starts operating, everything begins to spin and turn — it’s truly impressive.

4. The Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière

Notre-Dame de Fourvière, built in the 19th century, dominates Lyon’s skyline. It’s even nicknamed the ‘upside-down elephant’ because its blocky structure and four towers resemble an elephant’s legs from certain angles. Locals insisted, “You have to go to the top of one of the ‘elephant’s legs.’ It’s amazing!” And they were absolutely right – a hundred times over.

You can only go up as part of a guided tour, but there’s so much to see along the way. Intricate mosaics cover nearly every surface, and the beautiful statues, bells, and other details are incredible. From the open-air terrace, you get breathtaking views of the two rivers, the rooftops, and maybe even your hotel.

The tour lasts about 1.5 hours and is conducted in French. During peak season, it’s best to book your ticket in advance on the basilica’s website under ‘Visite insolite’ (Unusual Visit), it costs €14. Off-season, you can often grab a ticket just before the tour. Don’t be late – the guide locks the door before leading the group up.

The climb up the 345 steps isn’t too challenging, and there are plenty of stops along the way. However, in strong winds or heavy rain, access to the upper platform is restricted.

Even if you skip the tour, the basilica is still worth visiting. The lower church is simple yet serene, while the upper church is beautifully ornate. Entry is free. Though the basilica itself isn’t individually listed, it’s part of Lyon’s UNESCO World Heritage site, which includes Fourvière Hill and the historic centre.

Most visitors take the funicular up from Vieux Lyon station, but if you’re up for it, the walk isn’t too difficult. On the way down, strolling through the Jardin du Rosaire is a scenic and relaxing way to end your visit.

To the locals, Fourvière looks like an upside-down stool – with a head and four thick legs.

On the open-air platform, the guide gives visitors about 15 minutes to enjoy the views.

You’ll have plenty of time inside to soak in the beauty and snap some photos.

5. Lyon’s Murals

The murals (or frescoes) in Lyon are absolutely breathtaking. They’re huge, often covering five- or six-story buildings, and at first glance, you’d never realize they’re just painted images. It’s like seeing real people standing on balconies or climbing stairs!

Lyon is home to around 100 murals, many of which were created by a collective known as CitéCréation, a group of Lyon-based artists. Their work in the city began in the early 1980s.

The artists use a technique called trompe-l’œil, which creates visual illusions, making buildings and scenes appear incredibly real.

I saw about 15 murals during my time in Lyon. If you’re short on time, I’d recommend making sure you see at least a few – they’re well worth it!

Mur des Canuts: A tribute to Lyon’s silk workers and the history of the Croix-Rousse neighbourhood. You can see it at the corner of bd des Canuts and rue Denfert Rochereau.

Fresque des Lyonnais: This mural features 30 famous Lyonnais residents, including the writer Antoine de Saint-Exupéry, the Lumière brothers (pioneers of cinema), and the renowned chef Paul Bocuse. You can find it at 2 rue de la Martinière, along the Saône River.

La bibliothèque de la cité: This mural resembles a giant bookshelf, with the titles representing famous works by authors from Lyon and beyond. It’s located in the city centre at 6 rue de la Platière, also along the Saône.

Tourist information centres provide maps showing the key murals, making it easy to plan your own tour or join a guided excursion.

The Mur des Canuts mural in Lyon, showing a detailed scene with people, stairs, and buildings.

Mur des Canuts: 1,200 m², created between 1987 and 2013.

A mural in Lyon depicting famous Lyonnais figures standing on balconies and looking out of windows.

Fresque des Lyonnais: 800 m², created in 1995.

A mural in Lyon showing a giant bookshelf filled with books, painted on the side of a multi-story building.

La Bibliothèque de la Cité: 400 m², created in 1998.

6. Museum of Cinema and Miniatures

Opened in 2005, the Musée Cinéma et Miniature has two main sections – one dedicated to iconic films and another showcasing stunning miniature worlds.

What’s great is that the museum is right in Old Lyon, making it easy to fit into your itinerary. During peak season, there may be short lines for tickets, but nothing too long.

The museum spans several floors, and it’s easy to spend a couple of hours exploring. I’m so glad I had plenty of time – both sections of the museum are absolutely marvellous!

1) The Cinema section

Several dozen rooms are filled with real props and costumes from films you’ve probably seen countless times –Jurassic Park, Harry Potter, Alien, and many more. From the terrifying dinosaur models to wands and robes, it felt like I’d stepped right into prehistoric times or straight into Hogwarts!

The exhibit that completely blew me away was the one from Perfume – the cellar and workshop of Grenouille. His figure looks so lifelike, and all those 1,300 tiny bottles! A team of 12 people spent six months working on this set. Now it makes sense why films can cost so much to produce!

These models come from various studios, and the museum purchases them directly from producers or at auctions. While exact amounts aren’t disclosed, they can reach hundreds of thousands of euros.

A detailed display of sci-fi characters, part of the Musée Cinéma et Miniature exhibit.

The museum has a lot of characters from different popular movies.

A dimly lit cellar with a wax figure preparing bottles, part of a scene from Perfume.

The scene from Perfume: The Story of a Murderer is the most popular exhibit in the museum.

2) The Miniature section

Things are quite different in the miniature section on the top floor. There are about 100 scenes, each a little bigger than your laptop. The tiny houses, tables, books, and even vegetables – all made from wood, plastic, fabric, and paper – are incredibly detailed.

My favourite was a small alleyway with a motorcycle, all in perfect 1:12 scale. When I look back at my photos, I still do a double-take – how did a real city scene end up among my museum pictures? The level of realism is just that good.

All these models are works of art created by Dan Ohlmann, a former cabinetmaker and interior designer, and they really make you appreciate the beauty in the little things (literally!).

A museum hall with tiny dinosaur skeletons and fossils in a detailed miniature exhibit.

Natural history museum – just half a meter wide.

A narrow alleyway with a motorcycle parked beside a building in a detailed miniature scene.

City alleyway with a motorcycle in miniature.

7. Île Barbe

Île Barbe is a small, historic gem floating on the Saône River, just 5 kilometres from Lyon’s lively city centre. The island’s name comes from the Latin Insula Barbara, meaning ‘Barbarian Island’.

I hadn’t planned to visit this place, but it caught my eye while I was on the bus to the Automobile Museum Henri Malartre. On my way back, I couldn’t resist stopping, and it was absolutely worth it. The day was overcast, which only added to the island’s medieval feel.

First settled in Roman times, this island became home to a Benedictine abbey in the 5th century. While the abbey no longer hums with monastic life, you can still find traces of its medieval charm – like the weathered abbey church and ancient ruins.

Much of Île Barbe is privately owned and off-limits, but the parts open to the public are perfect for a stroll. I wandered around the accessible areas of the island, taking photos from different spots. My leisurely walk took about 1.5 hours.

Reaching Île Barbe is easy – it’s just a 15–20 minute bus ride from central Lyon. I’d recommend visiting on a weekday if possible, as the island has a park and playground, and it becomes a local hotspot on weekends and holidays.

Old stone building and church tower on Île Barbe along the riverbank.

This is the view that caught my eye from the bus on my way to the car museum.

Historic buildings on Île Barbe with trees and parked cars in front.

A glimpse of what you can see inside the island. Beyond this point, it’s private property.

Suspension bridge on Île Barbe crossing the Saône River.

The bridge connecting the island to the banks of the Saône.

8. Roman Theatre and Museum

The Théâtre Gallo Romain in Lyon, perched on Fourvière Hill, is a fantastic spot to spend an hour or two, especially on a sunny day.

This area was once part of the Roman Empire, when Lyon was called Lugdunum and served as the capital of Roman Gaul. Built over 2,000 years ago, the amphitheatre is larger than you might expect, with seating for up to 10,000 people.

The theatre is well-preserved, and together with the nearby Odeon (a smaller theatre for more intimate performances), it’s part of Lyon’s UNESCO World Heritage site.

Concerts and shows still take place here, but even on a quiet day, it’s worth visiting – you can climb the steps, sit on the ancient stone benches, and enjoy the stunning views over the city. Entry to the theatre is free, and there are also free toilets on-site.

If you’re a history fan, be sure to visit the Gallo-Roman Museum (about €7 per adult when I visited). The architecture is unique – you start at the top and spiral down through the exhibits. Most descriptions are in French, but a quick translation on your phone will help you get by.

Start your day here, then head to the Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière, just 400 metres away. I walked up from the Old Town, but you can also take the funicular. Either way, don’t miss Parc des Hauteurs and the Jardin du Rosaire near the basilica.

The Roman Theatre is one of the oldest in France/Photo: Carole Raddato

Roman Theatre in Lyon, a view of the amphitheatre seating from the stage level.

On hot days, there isn’t much shade, so it can get quite warm.

View from the Fourvière Hill with flowering trees and city in the distance.

From the Roman Theatre, follow the path through des Hauteurs Park for stunning views of Notre-Dame and the city.

9. The Musée des Confluences

Opened in 2014, the Musée des Confluences dives into natural history and society, located right where the Rhône and Saône rivers meet. The building itself is futuristic and eye-catching – one of those places that makes you stop and think, ‘What is that?’

The museum houses thousands of exhibits, covering everything from natural history to anthropology, divided into themed sections like ‘Origins of the World’, ‘Societies’, and ‘Eternities’.

A few exhibits blew me away. The Noh Theatre collection, with its intricate costumes from traditional Japanese performance art, is absolutely mesmerizing.

Then there’s the Choulans mammoth. Sure, only a third of it is original, but the reconstruction is so well done, you won’t even mind. Plus, it’s millions of years old – what mammoth wouldn’t need a little touch-up with wood and papier-mâché?

And, of course, the Arctic collection surprised me – I wasn’t expecting to see a pair of birch bark shoes from Finnish Lapland in warm France!

You’ll need 2 to 3 hours to explore everything – or at least most of it. With prehistoric fossils, minerals, shells, Egyptian artefacts, and even space satellites spread over 3,000 m², there’s a lot to take in. Be sure to head up to the rooftop, where you’ll get a great view of the river confluence and part of the city.

The Musée des Confluences is the most visited museum in Lyon and the entire region. You can easily reach the museum from the city centre by tram or bus in just 15-20 minutes.

A large skeleton of a Choulans mammoth displayed at the Musée des Confluences.

Choulans mammoth.

An Egyptian sphinx sculpture displayed in a dark-lit exhibit at the Musée des Confluences.

The Egyptian collection.

The Musée des Confluences was designed as a ‘crystal cloud’, symbolising the meeting of knowledge and innovation/© musée des Confluences – Laurent Vella.

10. Market Marché de la Croix-Rousse

If you want to experience local life, head to the Marché de la Croix-Rousse, a bustling open-air market in the historic silk-weaving district. This is where locals come to shop for fresh produce, and it’s one of the most vibrant and authentic spots in the city.

The market features 100 to 150 vendors, depending on the day (Sundays are the busiest). You’ll find everything from fresh vegetables and fruits to local cheeses, meats, fish, and baked goods.  Prices are reasonable, with cheese ranging from €14 to €25 per kilo, asparagus at €12 per kilo, and honey at €13.50. There are also clothing, flowers, and handmade crafts.

The market runs six days a week, from Tuesday to Sunday, starting early at 06:00 and winding down by 13:00. Since the stalls are set up and taken down daily, it changes slightly each time.

Most vendors don’t speak English, but they’re friendly and eager to explain what their products are and how to use them. Bargaining isn’t common here. Bring cash, as many stalls don’t accept cards.

Getting there is easy: Metro Line C takes you straight to the Croix-Rousse station. Personally, I preferred walking—it’s about 30 minutes from the Opera, with part of the walk going uphill.

Fresh strawberries on display at Marché de la Croix-Rousse in Lyon with seasonal pricing.

The strawberries were quite delicious.

Dairy products, including fresh milk and yoghurt, on display at the Marché de la Croix-Rousse in Lyon.

They sell all kinds of meat-based prepared foods here.

At the market, I counted at least 10 stalls selling dairy products.

11. Tête d’Or Park

Lyon’s iconic Tête d’Or Park is a must-visit. Created in 1857, it’s one of the largest urban parks in France, packed with things to do. Tree-lined avenues, colourful flowerbeds, a lake for paddle boating, a mini-train for kids, and wide open lawns make it perfect for spending half a day.

My favourite part is the botanical garden. I visited in April when everything was coming to life. With over 15,000 plant species, it’s one of Europe’s largest collections. The rose garden was just starting to bloom, and the alpine garden was full of fascinating plants. You’ll also find Mediterranean species and an impressive collection of succulents and cacti. I spent two hours just wandering.

But there’s more. I was surprised to spot a giraffe – yes, there’s a zoo too! I’m not usually a fan of zoos, but the enclosures here felt natural, and like everything else in the park, it’s free to visit.

Then, there’s the lake – perfect for a picnic or a relaxing stroll. You can even rent a boat or a four-seater pedal bike. My only gripe is the limited number of toilets.

The park is centrally located and easy to reach, either on foot or by bus. The best time to visit? Spring, when the gardens are bursting with blooms, or early autumn, when the weather’s mild and the park’s beauty truly shines.

Spring blooms in Tête d'Or Park, with colourful tulips and happy visitors capturing the moment.

April is a great time to visit Tête d’Or Park – plenty of flowers are in bloom, and the crowds haven’t arrived yet.

The botanical garden boasts a large collection of peonies, which were in full bloom in April.

A giraffe walking in an enclosure alongside a longhorn and a zebra at the zoo in Tête d'Or Park, Lyon, with trees in the background.

The zoo is quite small, and the main character here is the giraffe with its companions.

12. Automobile Museum Henri Malartre

If you love classic cars or transport history, the Musée Henri Malartre is an absolute gem. Located just 11 kilometres from Lyon, in the peaceful town of Rochetaillée-sur-Saône, it’s a perfect escape from the city for a few hours.

The collection here is seriously impressive – over 150 vehicles. You’ll find everything from vintage cars and motorcycles to bicycles and even trams, spanning from the late 1800s to the 1950s. I couldn’t stop admiring the luxurious Rolls-Royces, the elegant Bugattis, and the rare De Dion-Bouton and Delahaye models.

Founded in 1960 by Henri Malartre, a passionate car enthusiast dedicated to preserving these vehicles, the museum isn’t just about cars – you’ll also find vintage posters and spare parts, adding to the whole experience. It’s housed in the Château de Rochetaillée, a charming, historic building with parkland surrounding it.

Getting there from Lyon is a breeze, just a 30-minute ride by public bus. And if you have time, make a stop at Île Barbe (see № 7) on the way. I spent around six hours exploring both the museum and Île Barbe – it’s a perfect way to spend a day just outside Lyon.

The Château de Rochetaillée, the historic building housing the Musée Henri Malartre, surrounded by lush greenery.

The automobile museum is located in this historic manor.

A beige and brown Citroën B14G Torpedo, a 1928 model, displayed with a sign at the Musée Henri Malartre.

Citroën in 1928 looked like this.

A bright blue vintage car Talbot-Lago showcased at the Musée Henri Malartre.

Talbot-Lago was a French automobile manufacturer known for its luxury cars.

Where to find the best viewpoints in Lyon

Lyon is full of incredible viewpoints, offering stunning panoramas of the city. Here are some of the best spots to take in the view:

Esplanade de Fourvière: Lyon’s most famous viewpoint, and for good reason. The views, especially at sunset, are stunning. For an even more spectacular view, head to the rooftop of the basilica. Tours run twice a day, and there’s a fee, but the panorama is incredible.

Parc des Hauteurs: Just behind Fourvière, this park is a peaceful alternative for enjoying the view. It’s much quieter, and the scenery is just as fantastic.

Jardin des Curiosités: If you’re looking for something off the beaten path, head here. This small park has amazing views of the Saône River and the city, and it’s far less crowded than Fourvière. Plus, the quirky metal chairs by artist Michel Goulet add a fun, artistic touch.

Montée de la Grande-Côte: In the heart of Croix-Rousse, this charming street offers a scenic walk with views along the way. It’s perfect if you want a more local experience, but watch out for the slippery cobblestones – some are pretty worn and can be quite slick. The views may not be as wide as those from Fourvière, but they’re still worth the walk.

Place Rouville: Another great spot in Croix-Rousse, this quiet square has lovely views over the city. It’s a laid-back place to escape the crowds and enjoy a different perspective of Lyon.

People enjoying the view from a lookout with metal chairs and benches.

Jardin des Curiosités.

A street in Lyon’s Croix-Rousse district with buildings lining the path.

Montée de la Grande-Côte.

When to go

A trip to Lyon is great any time of year, but the best times to visit are April-May, September-October, and December. And if you don’t mind the heat (and crowds of tourists), summer can be a good option too.

Spring

This photo was taken on 14th April. By then, April already brings plenty of warm days, with little rain, though the sky is mostly overcast.

The best time to visit Lyon is in late spring. Nature is blooming, people are smiling, and local farmers bring plenty of fresh greens to the market. During April and May, temperatures range from 15°C to 23°C (59°F to 73°F), making it a comfortable time to explore the city. The tourist season begins in late April, and the streets start to fill up with visitors.

I visited in mid-April, and for me, it was the perfect time – it wasn’t too cold, there were no crowds, and I could already enjoy the flowerbeds in the botanical garden. During my 8-day stay, it drizzled twice for about two hours each time. The rest of the days were mostly a mix of clouds and occasional sunshine. Everywhere I looked, something was blooming—cherry blossoms, tulips, daffodils, and cascading wisteria.

Summer

Summer is peak tourist season, so you’ll likely have to navigate through crowds and queue in some places (for example, at popular patisseries and restaurants). There are also many outdoor events, festivals, and activities during this time. In summer, Lyon gets warm to hot, with temperatures between 25°C and 31°C (77°F to 88°F), but it can sometimes go up to 35°C. July and August can feel pretty humid, which adds to the mugginess. On those days, it can stay hot and humid even in the evenings and at night.

Autumn

At the beginning of September, there are still many tourists, and it can be quite warm. By late September and October, the sun isn’t as intense, and the crowds thin out significantly, though it remains pleasantly warm. Temperatures typically range from 15°C to 20°C (59°F to 68°F). This is an excellent time to visit Lyon, as you can enjoy the beautiful autumn scenery and a more relaxed atmosphere.

November to December

Visiting Lyon in late November or early December is a unique experience. November is great for wine lovers, as it’s when Beaujolais Nouveau is released. Beaujolais Nouveau is a light, fruity red wine made in the Beaujolais region, just north of Lyon. It’s famous for its early release each year, celebrated with events and tastings.

Another highlight is the Festival of Lights in early December (Fête des Lumières). The entire city lights up with beautiful displays, and it’s one of Lyon’s most famous events. Be sure to book your accommodation early as it’s a busy time for the city.

In November and December, daytime temperatures are around 10-11°C (50°F to 52°F), though evenings and nights can often drop close to freezing, especially in December. Around this time, the city begins its Christmas decorations, and shop windows come alive with lights and ornaments. In early December, the Christmas markets open, where you can pick up handmade gifts, taste seasonal treats like mulled wine, or simply enjoy the festive atmosphere.

Winter

January and February in Lyon are cold, with daytime temperatures ranging from 5°C to 10°C (41°F to 50°F). February can bring occasional snow and colder days. By late February, the city starts to wake up after winter.

How much time do you need in Lyon?

Lyon is made for wandering – just strolling through the streets, ducking into cute cafés, and stumbling upon a new favourite patisserie around every corner.

It really depends on your travel style. I spent eight days in Lyon, and I wasn’t bored for a minute.

In those eight days, I managed to see all the main attractions, climbed up to Fourvière Basilica, visited three museums, and probably tried every cheese from a local farmer at the market. Without that, my memories of Lyon wouldn’t be as special.

In total, I’ve visited France four times and spent almost 50 days here, and Lyon is now one of my favourite places.

If you enjoy visiting multiple cities during your vacation, you should plan to spend at least two or three days in Lyon. You could even take a day trip from Paris and still get a good feel for the city and see a lot.

How much does a trip to Lyon cost?

Here’s a quick look at what it’ll cost you for accommodation, food, attractions, and getting around:

Accommodation

Cozy corner in a Lyon apartment with bookshelves, a beanbag chair, and African-inspired decor by a bright window.

A cozy 50 m² apartment in the center of Lyon cost me €65 per day.

Budget options: Hostel beds cost around €23-35 per night, while budget hotels range from €50 to €80.
Mid-range: Decent 3- or 4-star hotels will run you €75-150 per night.
Luxury: High-end hotels start at €170 and can go up to €400 or more.
Airbnb: You can rent an entire apartment or studio for €60-150 per night, or find a private room from €40.

Cafes and restaurants

A plate of lasagna with a fresh green salad served on a floral-patterned plate, set on a decorative placemat in a Lyon café.

Lasagna served with a fresh salad costs €15.

Cheap eats: Street food or fast food is €5-10. A café meal runs about €10-15.
Bouchons (traditional restaurants): A full meal is about €25-35.
Fine dining: Fancy restaurants start around €50 per person and can go much higher.
Drinks: Coffee is about €2-4, and a glass of wine or beer is around €5-8.

Groceries in supermarkets

A basic weekly grocery shop will cost around €50.
Bread: Around €1-2 for a baguette.
Milk: About €1 per litre.
Eggs: A dozen eggs will cost around €3-4.
Cheese: Expect to pay around €18-25 for per kilogram.
Meat: Chicken or beef runs about €8-12 per kilogram.
Fruits and veggies: Typically €2-5 per kilogram, depending on what you’re buying.

Attractions

Museums: Entry fees are typically €6-12.
Lyon City Card: Covers museums, transport, and tours, starting at €27 for one day.
Day trips: Guided tours to the Beaujolais wine region or Pérouges can range from €50 to €150 per person.

Getting around

Single ticket: Public transport tickets are €2 for an hour of unlimited transfers.
Day pass: €6.20 for unlimited rides all day.
Airport transfer: Rhône Express costs €15 one way, or taxis from the airport to the city are around €50-70.

Extras

Souvenirs: Expect to spend €1.50-20 on typical items like postcards or magnets, or more for local specialties.
Tipping: Not required, but rounding up or leaving a small tip is always appreciated.

Estimated total costs

Budget traveller: If you stay in a hostel, eat at budget-friendly cafés or street food stalls, and stick to public transport, your daily budget could be around €50 to €80.
Mid-range traveller: A mid-range budget, including staying at a decent hotel, eating at traditional restaurants, and visiting a few museums, would be around €100 to €150 per day.
Luxury traveller: For a more luxurious experience with high-end dining, guided tours, and a top hotel, expect to spend €200 to €400 per day or more.

Where to stay in Lyon

I was only 300 meters from Place des Terreaux and its famous fountain — such a great spot!

Near Part-Dieu train station

Many people recommend staying near Part-Dieu train station, and I get why. If you’re only in Lyon for 1-2 days, it’s super convenient for catching the Rhône Express to the airport or hopping on trains to nearby cities.

Between the Saône and Rhône Rivers

If you’re staying for a week, I’d recommend staying in the area bordered by the Saône and Rhône rivers, between Bellecour and the Opera. This part of the city on the Presqu’île peninsula is full of fantastic restaurants, has excellent public transport links, and is close to many of Lyon’s top attractions.

I stayed in this very area, near Lyon City Hall (Place des Terreaux), and I absolutely loved it. The typical Lyonnaise building, with its huge, heavy entrance doors, made me feel like a local. Every morning at 7 a.m., I’d head down to the café to wake up under the warm rays of the sun. Sure, the area gets busy in the evenings, but my place was peaceful, with windows facing a quiet courtyard.

Just keep in mind that beyond Lyon City Hall, the streets start to slope, and about 200 meters further, you’ll begin the climb up the hill towards the La Croix-Rousse district, which might not be obvious when looking at a map!

Old Town

Vieux Lyon (Old Town) is another magical area to stay. But be aware – it tends to come with a higher price tag, and it can get quite crowded with tourists. That said, if you venture off the main streets, you’ll find some quieter spots.

La Croix-Rousse

For something more laid-back, consider La Croix-Rousse. This neighbourhood has a bohemian, artistic vibe that feels completely different from the more touristy areas. The only downside is the hill – it’s a bit of a workout to get to the main attractions, so be ready for some uphill walking.

Is Lyon safe?

Lyon feels safe for both residents and visitors. Sure, like any city, it has some crime, but violent crime rates stay low compared to other major cities. You just need to take standard precautions. Here are a few things to keep in mind:

Pickpocketing: Watch out for pickpockets, especially in crowded areas like markets, public transport, and tourist attractions. On a tram, they once tried to get into my bag by staging a little scene. Someone shoved me away from the ticket validator, and while I was distracted, another hand slipped into my bag. Luckily, I felt it in time, and they left empty-handed. Always stay alert!

Also, be cautious of ‘helpful’ strangers. They often hang around ticket machines, offering to help you buy a ticket, all while keeping close and trying to steal your purse, wallet, or phone. Their appearance doesn’t give them away – sometimes they’re dressed in suits or trendy clothes, making it hard to suspect them.

Neighbourhoods: Some areas are safer than others. Vieux Lyon, Croix-Rousse, and the Presqu’île are popular, central, and generally safe. Venissieux and Bron have a bit of a bad rep, but tourists don’t really have any reason to go there. If you plan to explore off the beaten path, check forums or ask locals for advice on specific areas.

Panhandlers: You’ll see many people sitting on the sidewalks asking for money. Most are quiet and non-aggressive. However, stay on guard. Some might try to distract you while others check your pockets. Not everyone is as poor as they seem, but there are genuinely needy people too.

Nighttime safety: Most areas feel safe, but stick to well-lit streets at night. Avoid isolated spots, just like in any big city. And don’t overindulge in alcohol.

Do people in Lyon speak English?

Lyon is a major university city, so you’ll see plenty of students, and many of them do speak English. Additionally, many people working in the tourism sector are comfortable with it.

In popular museums and restaurants, you’ll find explanations in English. At the airport and main stations, staff at information desks and ticket counters also speak English.

However, most locals don’t speak much English. If you ask an older local for directions, they might understand but probably won’t be able to respond in English. Outside the tourist centre, signs and information boards are typically only in French.

At the market, I couldn’t have much of a conversation with local farmers – most didn’t know more than a handful of words, though they were eager to talk about their cheese. Of course, I didn’t speak to everyone, and I’m far from covering 100%, but the cheese was excellent, so language wasn’t really an issue.

In short, you should be able to manage, especially in the more touristy areas of Lyon.

How to get to Lyon

A view of Lyon Saint-Exupéry Airport's Terminal 1

Lyon Airport is not too large and fairly quiet.

Lyon is well-connected and easily accessible by various means of transport:

By plane: Lyon-Saint Exupéry Airport (LYS) is the city’s main airport, about 25 km from the city centre. You’ll find airlines like easyJet, Transavia, Wizz Air, Lufthansa, and more flying here. From the airport, the Rhônexpress tram gets you to the city centre in around 30 minutes, but if you’re looking to save a bit, you can catch a bus to Vaulx-en-Velin La Soie and transfer to your destination from there.

By train: Lyon has two main train stations, Part-Dieu and Perrache, both of which are served by high-speed trains (TGV) from Paris, Marseille, Geneva, and other major cities. The TGV from Paris takes about 2 hours.

By bus: Several international and regional bus companies, like FlixBus, offer routes to Lyon from major European cities. The main bus station is located at Perrache.

What is public transport like in Lyon?

Metro station entrance at Vieux Lyon with ticket machines and gates for lines D, F1, and F2.

Entrance to Vieux Lyon – Cathédrale Saint-Jean station, serving metro and funiculars.

Lyon is a big city, and even in the main tourist areas, you’ll probably need to use public transport at some point. I love walking everywhere when I travel, but even I had to hop on the metro and trams a few times. The system isn’t perfect, but I’d still give it a solid four out of five.

Lyon’s transport network includes 4 metro lines, 6 tram lines, and a large bus network. The metro is fast and easy to figure out, and the trams are modern and smooth. Buses can be slower because of traffic, especially during rush hour.

Speaking of rush hour, it can get really crowded, especially in the mornings and late afternoons. After visiting the Musée des Confluences, I barely managed to squeeze into the second tram – the first one was completely packed! And watch out for pickpockets – like in any big city, they’re around, so stay aware.

Since most announcements are only in French, there’s always a chance you might end up somewhere unexpected. That happened to me once when my bus suddenly went ‘out of service and headed to the depot’. I ended up exploring a completely non-touristy neighbourhood I hadn’t planned on seeing. So, there’s that!

You can buy tickets at metro and tram stations from machines that take cards and cash. A single ticket costs €2 and works for an hour across all transport, but don’t forget to validate it each time you board a new bus or tram! Inspectors do regular checks, and the fines aren’t cheap.

If you’re planning a lot of trips, it’s worth considering a day pass or a multi-trip ticket. And here’s a bonus: public transport is free if you have the Lyon City Card!

How to get to the airport from Lyon

Rhônexpress tram at Lyon Part-Dieu station, heading to the airport

The Rhônexpress tram at Lyon Part-Dieu station connects the city with Lyon-Saint Exupéry Airport.

There are several ways to get to and from Lyon-Saint Exupéry Airport (LYS) and the city centre. Here’s a breakdown of your options:

Rhônexpress Tram:

  • The Rhônexpress tram connects Lyon’s main train station, Part-Dieu, with the airport in about 30 minutes. Note that the tram stop is not inside the station – you’ll need to walk through or around the station to reach the stop on Rue de la Villette.
  • The tram runs every 15–30 minutes from around 04:25 to midnight, with only two stops along the way.
    You can also catch the tram at Vaulx-en-Velin La Soie metro station, if that’s more convenient.
  • The Rhônexpress is convenient but relatively expensive, at around €15 one-way if booked online.

Taxi:

  • Taxis are available throughout Lyon and take about 30–45 minutes to reach the airport, depending on traffic. A taxi ride costs approximately €50–€70.
  • Uber is also available.
  • Allow extra time if you’re travelling during rush hours.

Public bus (Cheaper option):

  • For a more affordable alternative, you can take a bus from Vaulx-en-Velin La Soie to the airport. This option is less direct and takes longer (about 45–60 minutes), but it’s cheaper than the Rhônexpress.

Where to buy groceries in Lyon

In Lyon, you definitely won’t go hungry, whether you’re dining out at restaurants or, like me, mostly cooking at home. The city offers plenty of delicious options, and exploring its markets and food shops is half the fun.

Supermarkets

A display of French cheeses at a supermarket, featuring Reblochon AOP and Cantal entre deux AOP.

I found over 30 types of packaged cheese in one of the small supermarkets – not amazing, but enough to get by for a few days!

As you wander through Lyon’s city centre, you’ll notice plenty of smaller supermarkets like Carrefour Express and Carrefour City. These stores are everywhere, and although they’re compact, they have almost everything you need.  Sure, the prices are a little higher, but if you’re just grabbing a few things, it’s convenient for a quick stop.

If you’re looking for something more budget-friendly, Lidl is a solid option. There are a couple of Lidl stores near the Part-Dieu train station. Another option is Auchan, where you can often find good deals if you’re in the mood to explore.

Markets (Marchés)

One of the real joys of shopping in France is visiting the local markets, and Lyon is no exception.

Marché Saint-Antoine: This open-air market, stretching along the Saône River, is one of Lyon’s most famous. It’s open daily (except Mondays), and you can find everything from oysters and cheese to fresh vegetables, pastries, and even the last truffles of the season. Prices can be a bit higher, but it’s all about the experience.

Marché de la Croix-Rousse: Located in the Croix-Rousse district, this market is a bit more affordable than the central markets. I’ve already mentioned it when talking about sights in Lyon – it’s a local favourite with a laid-back vibe and lower prices.

Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse: If you’re after high-end food shopping, this indoor market is a must. It’s pricier, but you’ll find top-quality meats, cheeses, and speciality items.

Marché Place Carnot: A smaller, local market in the Perrache area, only open on Wednesdays and Sundays. It’s worth a visit if you’re staying nearby.

Organic and Specialty Stores

Lyon has some great spots to explore if you’re into organic or speciality foods.

Bio c’ Bon: Located at 58 Av. des Frères Lumière, this store has everything from fresh fruits and vegetables to cereals and snacks. Prices are a bit higher, but the quality makes it worth the splurge.

Naturalia: Another option if you’re looking for eco-friendly or vegan products. You can find this organic supermarket at 4-6 Rue Grolée.

Asian and International Groceries: For something different, head to the La Guillotière-Sud district. This area is filled with Asian, Middle Eastern, and African stores, where I found spices, exotic fruits, and even baobab powder at reasonable prices.

What to bring from Lyon

Alcoholic beverages from the Chartreuse Monastery.

Alcoholic beverages from the Chartreuse Monastery.

In Lyon, it’s easy to be overwhelmed by all the interesting things and delicious foods – you’ll want to take everything home! Here are some ideas for what to bring back:

Local food specialities

  • Coussin de Lyon: A sweet treat made of chocolate and marzipan, shaped like a small cushion. It’s a Lyon classic.
  • Cheeses: Lyon offers a fantastic selection of local cheeses. You can find them in markets, supermarkets, and speciality delis (though prices at delis are usually higher). I brought back a dozen different types of cheese in small pieces, and everyone loved this as a gift!
  • Saucisson: Lyon is renowned for its dry-cured sausages. Pick up some artisanal saucisson to enjoy or share with friends.

Local wine and spirits

Just a heads-up – if you’re only travelling with carry-on luggage, wine won’t be an option!

  • Beaujolais Wine: The Beaujolais region is close to Lyon, making a bottle of Beaujolais a perfect gift for wine lovers.
  • Chartreuse: This herbal liqueur, made by monks near Lyon, has a distinctive taste – your friends might love it as much as you do!

Silk scarves and fabrics

A silk scarf, tie, or fabric from one of the traditional silk shops is a truly charming and elegant gift. Though, it seems the patterns here might suit brunettes a bit more.

Local crafts and art

Look for handmade pottery, ceramics, or artwork from local artisans. Lyon’s markets often have stalls selling unique, handcrafted goods.

Brioche and pastries

If your flight is short, grab some fresh local pastries like brioche or croissants. Bakeries open around 06:00–07:00, so you can easily pick up a few treats before heading out. My flight was in the morning, and by 15:00 we were already enjoying our fresh French pastries at home!

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