Many tourists dream of seeing Paris — and yes, I once spent a month there. It’s amazing. But France has so many other beautiful cities to offer, and Lyon is definitely in the top five.

Lyon has a rare kind of balance — grand but not showy, full of history but easy to take in on foot. It’s a city of hills and rivers, Roman ruins and modern murals, quiet courtyards and open-air markets.

It’s also where you’ll find coq au vin (chicken stewed in wine) on a lunch menu, a basilica nicknamed an elephant, and more types of cheese than days in the year.

I stayed for eight days, walked almost everywhere, and left with more favourites than I can possibly list. So if you’re wondering what to see, do, eat, or skip — here’s my Lyon travel guide, short on fluff and full of the good stuff.

What to See in Lyon

Lyon’s contrasts unfold in layers — pastel hillsides, hidden staircases, and modern towers on the horizon.

Lyon is made for wandering — most of its highlights are within walking distance.

Roughly 10% of the city is UNESCO-listed, but there’s much more: over 20 museums, hundreds of murals, hilltop views, riverside parks, and quiet corners that sneak up on you.

Here are the places that stayed with me.

1. Vieux Lyon

The Old Town of Lyon, known as Vieux Lyon, is one of the largest Renaissance quarters in Europe — and it shows. Most of it was built between the 15th and 17th centuries, when Lyon thrived as a centre of silk and banking. You’ll see pastel façades, stone-framed windows, and inner courtyards hidden behind heavy doors.

Wandering here means ducking into shady traboules, eyeing Gothic details on the cathedral, and trying to decide which café terrace looks most inviting (spoiler: they all do).

The main artery is Rue Saint-Jean — lively, shop-lined, and full of sweet smells — but some of the best corners are just a turn away.

What I’d come back for:

• Cathédrale Saint-Jean-Baptiste: A 12th-century Gothic landmark with a 9-metre astronomical clock inside. First mentioned in 1383, it still strikes on the hour and shows the date, moon phases, and positions of planets and stars.
• Traboules: Hidden passageways cutting through buildings and courtyards. Once used by silk merchants, now by curious visitors. Around 200 exist, but not all are open — here’s where to find the ones you can enter.
• Bouchons: Cosy Lyonnais restaurants where you can try quenelles, coq au vin (chicken stewed in wine), and the sweet green Coussin de Lyon — chocolate and marzipan shaped like a pillow.

There’s also a funicular here that climbs to Fourvière Hill, where the Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière and Lyon’s best views await (I’ll get to those in a bit).

Vieux Lyon stretches for 2 km along the Saône — with the cathedral as its Gothic heart.

This district is packed with cafés, bouchons, patisseries, and silk shops — all within a few cobbled streets.

2. Boat Tours in Lyon

Seeing Lyon from the water is both relaxing and revealing. A river cruise takes you past the Old Town, the Presqu’île, and into the futuristic Confluence district — a contrast of Renaissance façades and bold modern architecture.

I went with Les Bateaux Lyonnais, which departs from 2 Quai des Célestins, right in the city centre. Boats hold around 100–150 passengers. Even in April, I waited 20 minutes for a ticket — it was a sunny Sunday, so consider booking ahead in high season.

Most tours last an hour, with live or recorded commentary in both French and English. You’ll glide past landmarks old and new, including:

• The green Euronews building — nicknamed the pencil sharpener for its angular look.
• The Orange Cube — known locally as the cheese.
• La Sucrière — a former sugar warehouse turned contemporary art venue.
• The Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière, seen from the river in all its hilltop glory.

If you’re up for something fancier, they also offer dinner cruises and longer themed trips. Check the schedule and book online here.

Boats run often, but queues still build up — especially when the sun’s out.

Every seat taken as the boat sets off along the Saône.

Locals nicknamed this green Euronews building ‘the pencil sharpener’ — just next to the Orange Cube.

3. Lyon Silk Workshops

Lyon’s silk history is too rich to skip — and the best way to experience it is by visiting two working workshop-museums: Maison des Canuts and Atelier de Soierie. Both are tucked into the Croix-Rousse district, just a 7-minute walk apart.

Each offers short guided tours twice a day. The tours are in French only, but even if you don’t speak the language, they’re worth it for the atmosphere and live demonstrations.

I didn’t need to book in advance — I simply arrived at the scheduled time and purchased my ticket on the spot. But in high season, it’s probably safer to reserve ahead.

Maison des Canuts

This museum tells the story of the canuts, the silk weavers who helped make Lyon famous. The guides demonstrate how 19th-century Jacquard looms worked — you’ll see the machines in action, clattering away as they weave.

The space is small (about 50 m²), but full of detail. You can even head upstairs to see how workshop owners once lived — there’s a tiny bedroom with a simple wooden bed, a few books and toys, and downstairs, a modest kitchen with a washstand and a plate of biscuits on the table.

The guide at Maison des Canuts explains how 30,000 silk looms once filled Lyon’s workshops in the 19th century.

Inside the museum: historic patterns and examples of Lyon’s fine silk weaving.

Atelier de Soierie

Just 500 metres away, Atelier de Soierie still produces hand-printed silk ribbons — the kind used by luxury houses like Hermès and Louis Vuitton.

The workshop preserves the feel of a 19th-century studio, with its original printing tables and tools. There’s also a small boutique with beautiful silk gifts. Prices are moderate — a hand-printed scarf starts at around €50.

Perforated cards like this one guided the Jacquard loom — an early step toward computer programming.

Once the loom kicks in, wheels spin and threads dance — it’s mesmerising to watch.

4. The Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière

Built in the 19th century, Notre-Dame de Fourvière dominates Lyon’s skyline. Locals jokingly call it the “upside-down elephant” — from some angles, its four corner towers really do resemble legs.

More than one Lyonnais insisted: “You have to go up. Trust me, the view will stay with you.” And they weren’t wrong.

You can only climb the basilica’s tower as part of a guided tour, and it’s well worth it. The route takes you past bells, statues, and mosaic-covered interiors before reaching the open-air terrace, where Lyon unfurls below you — rivers, rooftops, and all.

The tour lasts about 1.5 hours and is conducted in French. I booked in advance on the basilica’s website (look for Visite insolite), a smart move in high season, though off-season you might still find a spot last minute. Don’t be late — the door is locked when the tour begins.

The climb (345 steps) isn’t too hard, and there are pauses along the way. Just note: in high winds or rain, the upper platform might be closed.

Even without the tower tour, the basilica itself is stunning. The lower church is quiet and modest, while the upper church is gloriously ornate — and free to enter.

Some say Fourvière looks like an upside-down elephant; others say a stool. Either way, it towers above the city.

The open-air platform gives you about 15 minutes — and a sweeping view of Lyon’s rooftops and rivers.

You’ll have time to linger inside: the mosaics, statues, and ceiling details are worth it.

5. Lyon’s Murals

Lyon’s murals are astonishing — many stretch across entire façades, five or six storeys high. At first glance, you might think you’re seeing real people on balconies, peeking through windows, or climbing stairs. But it’s all paint.

There are around 100 murals across the city, most of them created by CitéCréation — a local artists’ collective that began transforming Lyon’s walls in the 1980s. They work in trompe-l’œil style, a technique that tricks the eye into seeing depth and dimension where there is none.

Three Murals You Shouldn’t Miss

Mur des Canuts: A huge tribute to the silk workers of Croix-Rousse, packed with life and detail. The mural shows the neighbourhood changing through the seasons and years. You’ll find it at the corner of Boulevard des Canuts and Rue Denfert Rochereau.

Mur des Canuts: One of the largest murals in the world — 1,200 m² of everyday life in Croix-Rousse, painted between 1987 and 2013.

Fresque des Lyonnais: This riverside mural features 30 famous Lyonnais — from Antoine de Saint-Exupéry and the Lumière brothers to chef Paul Bocuse. It’s located at 2 Rue de la Martinière, along the Saône.

Fresque des Lyonnais: 800 m² of painted balconies, staircases, and 30 Lyon legends — all hiding in plain sight.

La Bibliothèque de la Cité: A building turned into a giant bookshelf. The spines show books by Lyonnais writers and world-famous classics. It’s at 6 Rue de la Platière.

La Bibliothèque de la Cité: A 400 m² bookshelf of Lyonnais literature, painted in 1998.

6. Museum of Cinema and Miniatures

This curious Musée Miniature et Cinéma in the heart of Vieux Lyon combines two worlds under one roof: movie magic and miniature art. It’s been here since 2005 and covers several floors — easy to spend a couple of hours here without noticing the time.

The Cinema Section

The cinema part is packed with original props, costumes, and models from films you’ve definitely seen — Jurassic Park, Harry Potter, Alien, and many more. There’s something surreal about standing face to face with a dinosaur — or spotting the real Hogwarts robe behind glass, less than a metre away.

What really stopped me in my tracks was the recreated cellar and workshop from Perfume. Grenouille’s figure is eerily lifelike, and the shelves are lined with 1,300 tiny bottles. It took 12 people six months to build this set. No wonder film budgets explode.

Most of the objects here come straight from studios or auctions. Prices aren’t made public, but we’re talking six figures — in euros.

Aliens, astronauts, and superhumans — the museum’s costume collection spans decades of cinematic imagination.

The eerie workshop from Perfume is a showstopper: dim light, lifelike Grenouille, and 1,300 tiny bottles.

The Miniature Section

Head to the top floor for something completely different: tiny, perfectly crafted worlds no bigger than a laptop screen. There are around 100 of these scenes — furnished rooms, shop interiors, stairwells, street corners — all built to exacting scale using wood, fabric, paper, even dust.

My favourite? A dim alley with a motorbike, done in flawless 1:12 scale. I had to check my photos twice — it looked like I’d photographed a real city street.

These pieces were created by Dan Ohlmann, a former cabinetmaker and interior designer. His attention to detail is absurd in the best way — you’ll leave seeing ordinary objects a little differently.

A natural history museum shrunk to half a metre — glass cases, skeletons, and all.

Blink and you’ll miss it: a narrow city alleyway, complete with a tiny motorbike and urban grit.

7. Île Barbe

Just 5 kilometres from central Lyon, Île Barbe floats in the middle of the Saône like a quiet time capsule. Its name comes from the Latin Insula Barbara — “Barbarian Island” — and its roots go deep: first settled in Roman times, later home to a Benedictine abbey founded in the 5th century.

Much of the island is now private and gated, but what’s open to the public is charming enough — a weathered church, mossy stone walls, riverside benches, and the kind of hush you rarely get this close to a city. I wasn’t planning to stop here (spotted it on the way to the Automobile Museum), but on the way back, I hopped off the bus and stayed for an hour and a half, just wandering.

A grey sky over Île Barbe — only adding to the island’s medieval mood.

What you’ll see beyond the bridge: quiet paths, old stone, and a clear sign where public space ends.

This bridge connects Île Barbe to the eastern bank of the Saône — just 5 km from central Lyon.

8. Roman Theatre and Museum

The Théâtre Gallo-Romain, tucked into the slope of Fourvière Hill, is one of Lyon’s most atmospheric sights — especially on a sunny day.

This was the heart of Roman Lugdunum, once the capital of Roman Gaul. The main theatre dates back over 2,000 years and could hold up to 10,000 spectators. Next to it is the Odeon, a smaller venue once used for music and readings. Both are now part of Lyon’s UNESCO World Heritage site.

You can explore the whole site for free — climb the stone steps, sit where Roman crowds once did, and enjoy views over the rooftops of Lyon. Events still take place here, but even on a quiet afternoon, it’s a beautiful place to wander. There are also clean public toilets on site (a rare bonus in ancient ruins).

Right next door is the Musée Gallo-Romain (about €7). It’s built into the hillside and takes you on a spiral path down through Lyon’s ancient past — mosaics, statues, inscriptions, even Roman plumbing. Most signs are in French, but a translation app will get you far enough.

Carved into the hillside, Lyon’s Roman Theatre is among the oldest in France./Photo: Carole Raddato

Even on a cloudy day, you can feel how these ancient stones trap the heat — come summer, it gets blazing.

From the theatre, the Parc des Hauteurs path leads you to sweeping views of Lyon and the Fourvière Basilica.

9. The Musée des Confluences

Opened in 2014, the Musée des Confluences is Lyon’s boldest museum — in both form and content. It sits dramatically at the tip of the Presqu’île, right where the Rhône and Saône rivers meet. The building is all glass, metal and geometry — one of those places that makes you stop and think, “Wait, what is that?”

Inside, the focus is on natural history, anthropology and culture, spread across 3,000 m². Themes range from the origins of life to death rituals and the diversity of human societies.

A few exhibits really stuck with me. The Noh theatre collection, with its delicate Japanese costumes and masks, is hauntingly beautiful. Then there’s the Choulans mammoth — only a third of the bones are original, but the reconstruction is so good you won’t care. (Frankly, what mammoth wouldn’t need a little papier-mâché after 120,000 years?)

And the Arctic section? Totally unexpected. Birch-bark shoes from Finnish Lapland, on display in subtropical Lyon — now that’s contrast.

You’ll want at least 2–3 hours here to see it all. Fossils, meteorites, ancient Egyptian artefacts, shells, stuffed birds, space satellites — it’s a fascinating jumble. Don’t miss the rooftop terrace — it offers sweeping views of the confluence and the city’s southern edge.

Choulans mammoth: This part-original, part-reconstructed mammoth greets visitors with quiet grandeur — and a papier-mâché leg or two.

The Egyptian collection: Statuettes, sarcophagi, and symbols of the afterlife — all laid out in a softly lit, timeless space.

The Musée des Confluences: Designed as a ‘crystal cloud’, the building mirrors the rivers’ meeting point with its bold lines and futuristic shimmer. © musée des Confluences – Laurent Vella

10. Market Marché de la Croix-Rousse

If you want a taste of real Lyon life — quite literally — head to the Marché de la Croix-Rousse. Set in the old silk-weaving district, this lively open-air market is where locals do their weekly shop, and it’s easily one of the most vibrant, unscripted corners of the city.

There are between 100 and 150 stalls, depending on the day (Sunday is the big one). You’ll find fresh fruit and veg, local cheeses, meats, fish, honey, bread, pastries — plus flowers, clothes, and the occasional handmade craft. Prices are reasonable: cheeses €14–25/kg, asparagus around €12/kg, honey €13.50/kg.

The market runs Tuesday to Sunday, from 06:00 to around 13:00. It shifts and reshuffles daily — no two mornings are quite the same.

Vendors are friendly, even if you don’t speak French. Most are happy to gesture or explain what to do with that oddly shaped root or which cheese is best for raclette. Just bring cash — many stalls don’t take cards. And no, bargaining isn’t really done here.

Strawberry season hits differently in Lyon — sweet, juicy, and gone too fast.

From saucissons to pâtés, there’s no shortage of meaty temptations.

At least ten cheese stalls, each one more fragrant than the last.

11. Tête d’Or Park

Lyon’s Tête d’Or is more than just a park — it’s a full-fledged green kingdom. Opened in 1857 and still going strong, it’s one of the largest urban parks in France, with enough space, plants, and activities to keep you wandering for hours.

There’s something for everyone here: tree-lined paths, manicured flowerbeds, a small lake for paddle boating, a free zoo — and, for kids (or adults with a sense of humour), a mini-train.

My favourite part was the botanical garden. I went in April, when everything was just waking up. With more than 15,000 species, it’s one of Europe’s largest collections — and feels like it. The rose garden was just beginning to bloom, the alpine section was already full of quirky high-altitude plants, and inside the greenhouses I found succulents, cacti, and even Mediterranean trees. I happily lost two hours there.

And yes, I did a double take when I spotted a giraffe. The zoo is free and surprisingly pleasant — spacious enclosures, no ticket queue, and an atmosphere more park than institution. I’m not usually into zoos, but this one felt thoughtful.

As for the lake, it’s ideal for a quiet stroll or snack break. You can rent a boat or cycle around on one of those odd but fun quadricycles. My only complaint? Not enough toilets — and they’re not exactly easy to find.

April in Tête d’Or: peonies in bloom, sunshine on the lawns, and everyone’s out to enjoy it.

Peony central — the botanical garden’s stars were showing off in full bloom this April.

It’s not a big zoo, but the giraffe knows it’s the main attraction — and doesn’t mind the attention.

12. Automobile Museum Henri Malartre

If you’re into classic cars or transport history, the Musée Henri Malartre is a hidden gem just 11 km from Lyon. Tucked away in the quiet town of Rochetaillée-sur-Saône, it makes for a lovely half-day escape.

The museum houses over 150 vehicles — vintage cars, motorcycles, bicycles, even a few old trams — dating from the late 1800s to the 1950s. I found myself drifting from one beauty to the next: gleaming Rolls-Royces, elegant Bugattis, and rare De Dion-Bouton and Delahaye models, all lovingly restored.

The collection was started in 1960 by Henri Malartre, a passionate collector who wanted to preserve automotive heritage. Beyond the cars, you’ll see vintage posters, spare parts, and a few curiosities (yes, that is a wooden bicycle). The museum lives inside the Château de Rochetaillée — a stately old building surrounded by trees, which adds a bit of cinematic flair.

The museum is housed in the Château de Rochetaillée — a manor that feels straight out of a period film.

This 1928 Citroën B14G shows just how far car design has come.

Sleek, rare, and undeniably French — a Talbot-Lago from the golden age of luxury motoring.

Where to Find the Best Viewpoints in Lyon

Lyon is a city of hills, and it makes the most of them. Whether you’re chasing rooftops, river curves, or the perfect sunset, these five viewpoints are well worth the effort.

All are walkable from the city centre, though some require a bit of uphill. To save your legs, hop on the funicular from Vieux Lyon — it’ll get you to Fourvière and Saint-Just in minutes.

Jardin des Curiosités

Now here’s a secret worth sharing. This tiny, oddball park sits tucked away in the Saint-Just district, with metal chairs bolted into the ground at strange angles — a public art installation by Michel Goulet. It looks out over the Saône and Presqu’île, and best of all, barely anyone’s there.

Jardin des Curiosités — quiet, quirky, and high above the Saône.

Montée de la Grande-Côte

This historic stair-stepped street in Croix-Rousse climbs past colourful facades and street art, with lovely views at every pause (and you’ll want to pause). It’s popular with photographers, dog walkers, and people carrying far too many baguettes uphill. Just mind the cobblestones — some are slick, especially after rain.

Montée de la Grande-Côte — scenic slope with a city view.

When to go

Lyon’s not a one-season city. It’s got charm all year round — but some months are definitely easier on your feet (and your photos).

Spring

14 April in Lyon: warm air, overcast skies, and spring in full swing.

The best time to visit Lyon is in late spring. Nature is blooming, people are smiling, and local farmers bring plenty of fresh greens to the market. During April and May, temperatures range from 15°C to 23°C (59°F to 73°F), making it a comfortable time to explore the city. The tourist season begins in late April, and the streets start to fill up with visitors.

I visited in mid-April, and for me, it was the perfect time – it wasn’t too cold, there were no crowds, and I could already enjoy the flowerbeds in the botanical garden. During my 8-day stay, it drizzled twice for about two hours each time. The rest of the days were mostly a mix of clouds and occasional sunshine. Everywhere I looked, something was blooming — cherry blossoms, tulips, daffodils, and cascading wisteria.

Summer

Summer is peak tourist season, so you’ll likely have to navigate crowds and queues (especially at popular patisseries and restaurants). There are also many outdoor events, festivals, and activities during this time. Lyon gets warm to hot in summer, with temperatures between 25°C and 31°C (77°F to 88°F), but it can occasionally climb to 35°C (95°F). July and August can feel quite humid, especially in the evenings, when the air doesn’t cool down much.

Evenings often stretch into open-air dinners and late-night concerts — the city feels alive (and slightly sweaty).

Autumn

In early September, Lyon is still quite busy and warm. By late September and October, the sun is less intense, and the crowds thin out, though it stays pleasantly warm. Temperatures typically range from 15°C to 20°C (59°F to 68°F). This is an excellent time to visit Lyon: the autumn light, colourful leaves, and slower pace all make for an atmospheric trip.

Street cafés stay open into October, and it’s the perfect season for riverside walks in a light jacket.

November to December

Late November and early December offer something special. November is a treat for wine lovers — that’s when Beaujolais Nouveau is released, a young, fruity red from the region just north of Lyon. Celebrations and tastings pop up across the city.

Then comes the Fête des Lumières, Lyon’s Festival of Lights in early December. The whole city glows with luminous installations — it’s one of Lyon’s most famous events, so book accommodation early.

During this period, daytime temperatures hover around 10–11°C (50–52°F), though evenings can dip close to freezing, especially in December. The city gets festive fast, with Christmas markets and lights appearing by early December. It’s a lovely time to sip mulled wine and browse for handmade gifts.

Winter

January and February are the coldest months, with daytime temperatures between 5°C and 10°C (41°F to 50°F). February can bring a dusting of snow or a few sharper frosts. But by late February, signs of spring start creeping in, and the city begins to wake up again.

How much time do you need in Lyon?

Lyon is perfect for slow strolls, surprise cafés, and that one pastry you’ll think about for weeks.

That depends entirely on your pace. I spent eight days in Lyon and wasn’t bored for a second.

In that time, I covered all the major sights, climbed to the Basilica of Fourvière, wandered through five museums, and probably sampled every cheese a local farmer could legally sell at the market.

I’ve visited France four times now, spending close to 50 days in the country, and Lyon has firmly claimed a spot among my favourites.

If you like to mix cities during your trip, two or three days in Lyon is a solid start. Even a day trip from Paris is doable and surprisingly rewarding, though it’ll definitely leave you wanting more.

How much does a trip to Lyon cost?

Here’s a practical breakdown of what to expect in terms of accommodation, food, transport, and extras — whether you’re travelling on a budget or splurging a little.

Accommodation

A cozy 50 m² apartment in the center of Lyon cost me €65 per day.

Budget: Hostel beds range from €23 to €35 per night; basic hotels start at €50 and go up to around €80.
Mid-range: Expect to pay €75–150 for a solid 3- or 4-star hotel in a central location.
Luxury: High-end hotels begin at around €170 and can reach €400+ for boutique options or suites.
Airbnb: Entire apartments or studios typically cost €60–150/night, while private rooms start from €40.

Cafes and restaurants

Lasagna served with a fresh salad costs €15.

Cheap eats: Street food or takeaway is usually €5–10. A casual café meal might run €10–15.
Bouchons: Traditional Lyonnaise restaurants charge around €25–35 for a full menu.
Fine dining: Upscale restaurants start at €50 per person, and sky’s the limit.
Drinks: Coffee costs €2–4, and a glass of wine or beer is about €5–8.

I had excellent café meals for under €15, and some of the best cheeses of my life for less than €12.

Groceries from the supermarkets

If you’re staying longer or have access to a kitchen, you can cut costs by shopping locally:

Baguette: €1–2
Milk: €1 per litre
Eggs: €3–4 for a dozen
Cheese: €18–25 per kilo
Meat (chicken or beef): €8–12 per kilo
Fruit & veg: €2–5 per kilo
A basic weekly grocery shop might cost around €50.

Attractions

Museum tickets: Most cost €6–12.
Lyon City Card: From €27/day, includes museum entries, public transport, and some tours — quite good value if you’re planning to do a lot.
Day trips: Tours to Beaujolais or Pérouges usually cost €50–150 per person.

Getting around

Single ticket: €2 for one hour of unlimited transfers (metro, tram, bus).
Day pass: €6.20 for unlimited travel all day.
Airport transfer:
• Rhônexpress: €15 one way
• Taxi: €50–70

Extras

Souvenirs: €1.50–20 for small items like postcards, magnets, or local goodies.
Tipping: Not obligatory in France, but rounding up or leaving a euro or two for good service is appreciated.

Where to Stay in Lyon

Just 300 metres from Place des Terreaux — mornings with the Bartholdi Fountain and Lyon City Hall in sight.

Some travellers recommend staying near the Part-Dieu train station — and I see why. If you’re in Lyon for just a day or two, it’s extremely convenient: easy access to the Rhône Express for the airport, and direct trains to other cities in the region.

But if you’re staying longer, this area can feel a bit too businesslike — perfectly functional, but not the most atmospheric. You might want to look for somewhere with a little more local charm.

Near Part-Dieu train station

Some travellers recommend staying near the Part-Dieu train station — and I see why. If you’re in Lyon for just a day or two, it’s extremely convenient: easy access to the Rhône Express for the airport, and direct trains to other cities in the region.

But if you’re staying longer, this area can feel a bit too businesslike — perfectly functional, but not the most atmospheric. You might want to look for somewhere with a little more local charm.

Between the Saône and Rhône Rivers

If you’re staying longer — say, a week — I’d suggest basing yourself between the Saône and Rhône, between Place Bellecour and the Opera. This central part of the Presqu’île is full of great restaurants, well connected by public transport, and within walking distance of most sights.

I stayed right here, near Lyon City Hall (Place des Terreaux), and absolutely loved it. My building had that classic Lyonnaise feel — giant wooden doors, quiet courtyard, morning coffee downstairs in the sun. Yes, the area gets lively in the evenings, but my windows faced the inner yard, so it stayed peacefully quiet at night.

Just keep in mind: the climb toward Croix-Rousse starts just beyond City Hall — about 200 metres in that direction, the streets begin to slope. It’s not always obvious from a flat map.

Old Town

Vieux Lyon is a magical place to stay — all cobbled alleys and Renaissance charm — but expect higher prices and more tourists. If you do choose it, try to avoid the busiest streets. There are a few tucked-away corners that feel much calmer.

La Croix-Rousse

Looking for something more relaxed? Consider Croix-Rousse. It has a bohemian, artsy vibe and feels a world away from the tourist crowds. Just one catch: the hill. It’s a bit of a trek down to the centre (and back up again), so be prepared for some legwork.

Do people in Lyon speak English?

Lyon is a major university city, so you’ll see plenty of students, and many of them speak English. People working in tourism are usually comfortable with it too.

At museums, restaurants, the airport, and main train stations, English is fairly common. You’ll find signage and explanations, and staff at info desks or ticket counters can usually help in English.

But outside the tourist bubble, it’s another story. Older locals might understand a little, but don’t expect fluent replies. Most signs in residential areas or at smaller venues are French-only.

At the market, I couldn’t have much of a conversation with local farmers — most only knew a handful of words. Still, they were eager to chat about their cheese, which made up for everything. I didn’t speak to everyone, of course, but what I did try was excellent. So was the cheese.

In short, in central Lyon, you’ll get by just fine. A few words of French, even badly pronounced, go a long way.

How to get to Lyon

Lyon Airport is compact and surprisingly quiet — even the exterior feels unhurried.

Lyon is easy to reach, whether you’re flying in, rolling in by train, or arriving on a budget bus from elsewhere in Europe.

✈️By plane

Lyon-Saint Exupéry Airport (LYS) is the city’s main airport, located about 25 km from the centre. Airlines like easyJet, Transavia, Wizz Air, and Lufthansa fly here, often with connections via Frankfurt or Munich — that’s how I arrived and departed. The airport itself is small and easy to navigate, which made both legs of the trip pleasantly stress-free.

The fastest way into town is the Rhônexpress tram (about 30 minutes), but it’s on the expensive side. If you’d rather save money, take a TCL bus to Vaulx-en-Velin La Soie and hop on the metro — it takes longer, but costs far less. More on getting to and from the airport →

🚄 By train

Lyon has two major train stations: Part-Dieu and Perrache. Both are served by high-speed TGV trains from Paris, Marseille, Geneva, and beyond. From Paris, the trip takes around 2 hours — fast enough for a day trip, if you’re feeling ambitious.

🚌 By bus

If you’re travelling on a budget, long-distance buses like FlixBus and BlaBlaCar Bus connect Lyon to many European cities. The main bus terminal is at Perrache, conveniently located near the centre.

What is public transport like in Lyon?

Vieux Lyon – a handy station for exploring the Old Town or heading uphill by funicular.

Lyon’s public transport isn’t flawless, but it’s efficient enough — I’d give it a solid four out of five.

The network includes 4 metro lines, 6 tram lines, and plenty of buses. The metro is fast and simple to navigate, and the trams are smooth and modern. Buses can be slower, especially during rush hour, when traffic slows everything down.

Rush hour is no joke: after visiting the Musée des Confluences, I couldn’t even get on the first tram — it was that packed. I made it onto the second, barely. And yes, keep an eye on your belongings — pickpockets do exist, especially in crowds.

Most announcements and signs are in French, so there’s always a chance of a small adventure. Once, my bus went “hors service” mid-route and rolled straight to the depot. I ended up wandering through a very local part of Lyon I hadn’t planned to explore. So… silver linings?

You can buy tickets at metro and tram stations — machines usually accept cards and cash. A single ticket is €2 and stays valid for one hour across all lines (including transfers), but make sure to validate it every time you board a tram or bus. Inspectors are frequent, and fines aren’t fun.

If you’ll be using public transport a lot, consider a day pass or a carnet of 10 tickets. And if you’ve got a Lyon City Card, public transport is already included — a nice bonus.

How to get to the airport from Lyon

The Rhônexpress at Part-Dieu — Lyon’s fastest way to the airport.

There are several ways to travel between Lyon-Saint Exupéry Airport and the city centre. Here’s how they compare:

🛤 Rhônexpress Tram

This is the most direct public transport option. The Rhônexpress connects the Part-Dieu train station to the airport in about 30 minutes. The stop isn’t inside the Part-Dieu — you’ll need to exit and walk a short distance along Rue de la Villette.

It runs every 15–30 minutes from around 04:25 until midnight, with just two stops along the way. You can also catch it at Vaulx-en-Velin La Soie metro station if that’s closer to you. It’s fast and hassle-free, but not cheap — tickets cost around €15 one way if booked online.

🚕Taxi or Uber

Taxis are available citywide and take 30–45 minutes, depending on traffic. Expect to pay between €50 and €70.
Uber operates in Lyon and offers similar pricing, sometimes slightly lower.
Plan for extra time during morning or evening rush hours.

🚌 Public bus (Cheaper option)

The budget-friendly route involves taking a bus from *Vaulx-en-Velin La Soie* to the airport. It’s slower — about 45–60 minutes — and less direct, but significantly cheaper than the Rhônexpress.
This can be a good option if you’re not in a hurry and want to save a bit.

Where to buy groceries in Lyon

In Lyon, you definitely won’t go hungry — whether you’re dining out or, like me, mostly cooking at home. The city offers plenty of delicious options, and exploring its food shops and markets is half the fun.

Supermarkets

I once counted over 30 types of packaged cheese in a tiny neighbourhood store — not amazing, but definitely enough to get by for a few days.

As you wander around the city centre, you’ll see lots of small supermarkets like Carrefour Express and Carrefour City. These mini-markets are everywhere. Sure, prices are a little higher, but if you’re just grabbing a few things, they’re perfect for a quick stop.

For a more budget-friendly option, Lidl is a reliable choice. There are a couple of branches near the Part-Dieu station. Auchan is another alternative — not always the cheapest, but good for occasional deals if you’re in the mood to browse.

Organic and Speciality Stores

Lyon also has some great options for organic and niche products.

Bio c’ Bon (58 Av. des Frères Lumière)

This well-stocked organic shop has everything from fresh veg to granola and snacks. Prices are higher, but the quality’s reliable.

Naturalia (4–6 Rue Grolée)

Another good choice for eco-friendly or vegan products. You’ll find organic basics here along with plant-based specialities.

Asian and International groceries

For something different, explore the La Guillotière-Sud area. It’s full of Asian, Middle Eastern, and African stores — I spotted everything from baobab powder to jackfruit and fragrant spice blends, often at excellent prices.

What to bring from Lyon

Alcoholic beverages from the Chartreuse Monastery — herbal, historic, and not for the faint of palate.

In Lyon, it’s dangerously easy to fall in love with local flavours and beautiful little things — you’ll want to take everything home. Here are some of the most memorable (and practical) souvenirs:

Local food specialities

• Coussin de Lyon: A small green cushion filled with chocolate and marzipan, this sweet is as symbolic of Lyon as the Eiffel Tower is of Paris. It’s kitschy, sugary, and oddly elegant — and yes, it travels well.
• Cheeses: Lyon isn’t as famous for cheese as Normandy or the Alps, but the selection is still fantastic. Markets and supermarkets are full of affordable regional cheeses — or you can splurge at a deli. I brought back a dozen mini wedges, and not a single one survived the week.
• Saucisson: Dry-cured sausage is a local staple. You’ll find all kinds — with nuts, with wine, with a charming label that says “Lyonnais” — and they’re perfect for sharing, slicing, or simply hoarding.

Local wine and spirits

If you’re flying carry-on only, skip this part — airport security will not be charmed.

• Beaujolais Wine: Lyon sits at the doorstep of Beaujolais. A bottle makes a great gift, especially if you’ve visited the region or just want to pretend you have.
• Chartreuse: This bright green (or yellow) herbal liqueur is made by monks in the mountains not far from Lyon. Bold and complex.

Local crafts and art

Markets and pop-up stalls often showcase pottery, ceramics, and illustrations made by Lyonnais artists. If you’re looking for something with soul — and that fits in your suitcase — this is your category.

Brioche and pastries

If your flight’s not too long, swing by a bakery in the morning and grab some fresh brioche or croissants. Most open around 06:00–07:00, giving you just enough time to carry a box of buttery joy onto the plane. My own haul lasted till about 15:00 — back home and already half gone.